Is it time for Cost Attic Insulation in Burleson? What is the best type to choose? Let us focus on four specific types. One is blown attic insulation the other is batt insulation. Each type has pros and cons. However, which is the best choice for you.
One of the best advantages of blown attic insulation over batt is that the blown style covers everything; while there can be open areas in the batt type.
When you’re looking to have your home or building insulated with spray foam insulation, you have a couple of product choices. Whether you go with closed foam or open foam insulation, the differences in their make will make a big difference in which one will work best for your needs.
Radiant barrier insulation has one reflective side that is made from an aluminum coating. Any radiant barrier insulation can be installed in an existing or new home. The reflective side of the barrier insulation is made to face the open air pocket of the surface.
Almost all Cost Attic Insulation in Burleson are tested and rated as fireproof. If for some strange reason you find one that is not, stay away from that product.
Special Applications for Spray Foam Insulation
Insulating your attic is a great way to help lower your heating and cooling bills.
Using batts or rolls easily helps you achieve the recommended R-value for better insulating performance.
Ready? Okay, let’s go for it! Use layers of high R-Value insulation like R-30 or 38.
And depending on whether you have some insulation or no insulation, you may need a mix of Kraft-faced and unfaced, but we’ll get to that later.
Here are the tools, supplies and safety gear you’ll need for installation.
Let’s get started.
Insulation comes in rolls or pre-cut batts.
Either works, but we recommend using rolls in your attic to quickly cover a large area.
Just roll out the insulation and cut as needed.
Pre-cut batts are great for areas built at standard dimensions or when it’s easier to move small sections of insulation at a time.
If you’re adding insulation to what’s already there, you need to use unfaced insulation.
Putting Kraft-faced insulation over existing insulation will trap moisture and lead to mold and other problems.
That’s not good.
With existing insulation, all you need to do is add rolls of new unfaced insulation until you reach your desired R-Value.
If you’re insulating an attic that has no existing insulation, you could use Kraft-faced insulation on your first layer because that paper or vapor retarder, will help keep moisture from moving between your home below and the attic.
Before we start insulating the attic from scratch, let’s seal any air leaks with caulk for small gaps and foam for gaps up to three inches.
Then, we need to protect any objects that produce heat, like these can lights, by building a baffle.
A baffle is like a box that you place around the heat source.
You can construct one using cardboard or rigid foam.
This will need to keep insulation at least three inches away from the object.
Ventilation is incredibly important with attic insulation.
Be sure to use a vent chute so the fiberglass doesn’t come into contact with the underside of the roof.
Now that all that’s done, we can get down to it.
Measure your joist cavity opening to make sure your insulation will fit side to side and end to end.
As you cut down your roll, use a 2x4 and a utility knife on top of your base for a clean, easy cut.
If you have a narrow joist opening, you may need to trim it lengthwise before getting into the attic.
When you’re installing in your attic floor, place the paper side down against the floor to help prevent moisture from moving between your home below and the attic.
The unfaced side should be what you see when you’re finished.
Place your insulation between the joists and press it into place, just like you would with a wall.
You can continue to add rolls of unfaced insulation until you reach your desired R-Value.
Don’t forget about the attic door or hatch! Foamboards and weatherstripping can do the trick.
So that’s insulating attics with rolls or pre-cut batts! Want to see other places in your home where you may need to insulate? Check out these helpful videos.
About Reflective Foil Insulation
I have just completed an addition to my house. I've heard that blown in insulation is better than batts since covers the joists completely and leaves no open areas. Do you have any do it yourself suggestions?
Yes you are correct. Blown in insulation is better that batts when installed properly as it does seal the attic better.
First you need to measure your attic area that you plan on insulating. Most attics require a value of R-30, R-38 or R-49, depending on your climate and location. Once you know the square footage of your attic you can determine how much insulation you'll need by simple looking on the chart located on the bag of insulation.
Before you get started you will need to determine what materials you will need. Assuming your home has recessed lights, ceiling and bathroom fans and eave vents you will need the following tools and materials:
Loose Fill Insulation
Staple Hammer and Staples
Insulation Blowing Machine (Available at your local rental store)
I've found blowing insulation into the attic is a simple process. Start and the far ends of the attic. Going back and forth make sure its level and smooth. Make sure to get all areas of the attic and don't fill any vents or recessed light areas. Take a tape measure with you and check the levels once in a while. As an example, if your installing an R-38 of fiberglass insulation you would want it to measure 16 inches deep. As you work your way back near the attic access make sure your helper is getting that excess hose out of the way. When you get to about 6 feet from the access hole stop the machine so you can get on the ladder. Once on the ladder finish installing, making sure to bring the level evenly against the dam you previously built.
The final step is to place a piece of batt insulation in the access hole and carefully put the attic hole lid back into place. Now your done! Stay out of that attic as much as possible from this point as loose fill insulation that has been stepped on or crushed looses it's R value.