Ceiling Insulation Installation Lake Dallas

Is it time for Spray Foam Installers in Lake Dallas? What is the best type to choose? Let us focus on four specific types. One is blown attic insulation the other is batt insulation. Each type has pros and cons. However, which is the best choice for you.

Pink Insulation

One of the best advantages of blown attic insulation over batt is that the blown style covers everything; while there can be open areas in the batt type.

Shop Insulation

When you’re looking to have your home or building insulated with spray foam insulation, you have a couple of product choices. Whether you go with closed foam or open foam insulation, the differences in their make will make a big difference in which one will work best for your needs.

Radiant barrier insulation has one reflective side that is made from an aluminum coating. Any radiant barrier insulation can be installed in an existing or new home. The reflective side of the barrier insulation is made to face the open air pocket of the surface.

Almost all Spray Foam Installers in Lake Dallas are tested and rated as fireproof. If for some strange reason you find one that is not, stay away from that product.

Sound Deadening Insulation

Is Spray Foam the Best Insulation for Your Home?

If you are told that your attic along with the roof are two of the weakest places in your thermal insulation system it is possible that many may not believe. According to statistics poor (or absent) attic insulation will account for up to 15 % of the total energy loss in your house. Insulating an attic which is generally unheated is vital in the home energy saving process.

What is really the attic in your building?

Attic is defined as the space enclosed by the building wall and is located directly under the roof. As this is an area generally not occupied continuously by anybody (except in special designs and home modifications) it is unheated. Some components of utilities such as water heaters, hot water storages, air conditioning and heating air ducts and also goods storages may be located here depending on the volume of space available. Generally the roof and the floor are insulated though more often than not inadequately.

Areas of heat loss in an attic

Some major points of heat loss have been identified by researchers. For example;

  • Check all hot water plumbing insulation and renew if necessary. Continuous insulation through out is essential. Check near the storage tanks for weak insulation and rectify as needed.
  • Hot/cold air ducts are easily neglected items in an unconditioned attic. Poor seals between flanged joints, weak insulation in these places and elsewhere, non continuity in insulation etc. may cause high thermal energy losses.
  • Another cause of heat loss from conditioned areas to the attic is the recessed light fittings. Caution should be exercised when insulating the fitting as this will also entrap the heat emitted by the lamp leading to disastrous fires. Seeking manufacturer's instruction is therefore essential in this matter.
  • Vent grilles to and unheated attic is essential for proper ventilation of the occupied areas. Special care need to be taken to prevent obstruction of these grilles (generally located at the periphery of the attic floor).
  • Sprayfoam Insulation

    R-Value Comparisons Between Different Types of Insulations

    Insulating your attic is a great way to help lower your heating and cooling bills.

    Using batts or rolls easily helps you achieve the recommended R-value for better insulating performance.

    Ready? Okay, let’s go for it! Use layers of high R-Value insulation like R-30 or 38.

    And depending on whether you have some insulation or no insulation, you may need a mix of Kraft-faced and unfaced, but we’ll get to that later.

    Here are the tools, supplies and safety gear you’ll need for installation.

    Let’s get started.

    Insulation comes in rolls or pre-cut batts.

    Either works, but we recommend using rolls in your attic to quickly cover a large area.

    Just roll out the insulation and cut as needed.

    Pre-cut batts are great for areas built at standard dimensions or when it’s easier to move small sections of insulation at a time.

    If you’re adding insulation to what’s already there, you need to use unfaced insulation.

    Putting Kraft-faced insulation over existing insulation will trap moisture and lead to mold and other problems.

    That’s not good.

    With existing insulation, all you need to do is add rolls of new unfaced insulation until you reach your desired R-Value.

    If you’re insulating an attic that has no existing insulation, you could use Kraft-faced insulation on your first layer because that paper or vapor retarder, will help keep moisture from moving between your home below and the attic.

    Before we start insulating the attic from scratch, let’s seal any air leaks with caulk for small gaps and foam for gaps up to three inches.

    Then, we need to protect any objects that produce heat, like these can lights, by building a baffle.

    A baffle is like a box that you place around the heat source.

    You can construct one using cardboard or rigid foam.

    This will need to keep insulation at least three inches away from the object.

    Ventilation is incredibly important with attic insulation.

    Be sure to use a vent chute so the fiberglass doesn’t come into contact with the underside of the roof.

    Now that all that’s done, we can get down to it.

    Measure your joist cavity opening to make sure your insulation will fit side to side and end to end.

    As you cut down your roll, use a 2x4 and a utility knife on top of your base for a clean, easy cut.

    If you have a narrow joist opening, you may need to trim it lengthwise before getting into the attic.

    When you’re installing in your attic floor, place the paper side down against the floor to help prevent moisture from moving between your home below and the attic.

    The unfaced side should be what you see when you’re finished.

    Place your insulation between the joists and press it into place, just like you would with a wall.

    You can continue to add rolls of unfaced insulation until you reach your desired R-Value.

    Don’t forget about the attic door or hatch! Foamboards and weatherstripping can do the trick.

    So that’s insulating attics with rolls or pre-cut batts! Want to see other places in your home where you may need to insulate? Check out these helpful videos.


    Roof Insulation Cost Texas