Insulation Cost Lancaster

Is it time for Cavity Wall Insulation Cost in Lancaster? What is the best type to choose? Let us focus on four specific types. One is blown attic insulation the other is batt insulation. Each type has pros and cons. However, which is the best choice for you.

Radiant Barrier Insulation

One of the best advantages of blown attic insulation over batt is that the blown style covers everything; while there can be open areas in the batt type.

Spray On Insulation

When you’re looking to have your home or building insulated with spray foam insulation, you have a couple of product choices. Whether you go with closed foam or open foam insulation, the differences in their make will make a big difference in which one will work best for your needs.

Radiant barrier insulation has one reflective side that is made from an aluminum coating. Any radiant barrier insulation can be installed in an existing or new home. The reflective side of the barrier insulation is made to face the open air pocket of the surface.

Almost all Cavity Wall Insulation Cost in Lancaster are tested and rated as fireproof. If for some strange reason you find one that is not, stay away from that product.

Spray On Insulation Foam

Radiant Barrier - The Pro's and Con's

Although spray foam insulation as we know it today truly emerged in the 1980s, spray foam actually has its roots several decades further in the past, beginning with the development of polyurethane foam in the 1940s by Otto Bayer.

Otto Bayer, an industrial chemist, actually began working with polyurethane in Germany during the late 1930s. This technology was brought to the United States in the early 1940s by David Eynon, the president of Mobay, a war effort conglomerate created from the partnering of two chemical industry giants, Monsanto and the Bayer Corporation. Although Otto Bayer worked for Bayer Corporation, he was not related to the company's founding family.

During the 1940s, polyurethane polymers were used primarily in military and aviation applications. The production of war machines for the World War II conflict drove most of the applications of these high-grade plastic polymers for the duration of the war.

It was not until the 1950s that polyurethane began to be used in home insulation. It was the invention of the "Blendometer" that allowed for expansion of polyurethane application to the home insulation realm. The Blendometer was the first machine able to mix components for the creation of polyurethane foam and was created by Walter Baughman in 1953.

The 1980s and early 1990s saw a great deal of controversy within the spray foam insulation industry as different marketing schemes from various companies promoted the benefits of closed verses open foam insulation and as some companies tried to market water blown foam application processes.

Though there has been much debate within the industry, R-value standards, used as a measure of determining energy efficiency, have cleared up much of the controversy. R-value ratings clearly define closed foam as the most effective means of making a home as energy efficient as possible.

Closed cell spray foam has additionally been added to the list of building requirements for making homes in hurricane and earthquake zones more structurally sound. The improved stability of homes insulated with spray foam technology makes the use of spray foam a smart move for any homeowner regardless of geographic location. 

Blown In Attic Insulation

How to Insulate an Attic with Batts and Rolls

Insulating your attic is a great way to help lower your heating and cooling bills.

Using batts or rolls easily helps you achieve the recommended R-value for better insulating performance.

Ready? Okay, let’s go for it! Use layers of high R-Value insulation like R-30 or 38.

And depending on whether you have some insulation or no insulation, you may need a mix of Kraft-faced and unfaced, but we’ll get to that later.

Here are the tools, supplies and safety gear you’ll need for installation.

Let’s get started.

Insulation comes in rolls or pre-cut batts.

Either works, but we recommend using rolls in your attic to quickly cover a large area.

Just roll out the insulation and cut as needed.

Pre-cut batts are great for areas built at standard dimensions or when it’s easier to move small sections of insulation at a time.

If you’re adding insulation to what’s already there, you need to use unfaced insulation.

Putting Kraft-faced insulation over existing insulation will trap moisture and lead to mold and other problems.

That’s not good.

With existing insulation, all you need to do is add rolls of new unfaced insulation until you reach your desired R-Value.

If you’re insulating an attic that has no existing insulation, you could use Kraft-faced insulation on your first layer because that paper or vapor retarder, will help keep moisture from moving between your home below and the attic.

Before we start insulating the attic from scratch, let’s seal any air leaks with caulk for small gaps and foam for gaps up to three inches.

Then, we need to protect any objects that produce heat, like these can lights, by building a baffle.

A baffle is like a box that you place around the heat source.

You can construct one using cardboard or rigid foam.

This will need to keep insulation at least three inches away from the object.

Ventilation is incredibly important with attic insulation.

Be sure to use a vent chute so the fiberglass doesn’t come into contact with the underside of the roof.

Now that all that’s done, we can get down to it.

Measure your joist cavity opening to make sure your insulation will fit side to side and end to end.

As you cut down your roll, use a 2x4 and a utility knife on top of your base for a clean, easy cut.

If you have a narrow joist opening, you may need to trim it lengthwise before getting into the attic.

When you’re installing in your attic floor, place the paper side down against the floor to help prevent moisture from moving between your home below and the attic.

The unfaced side should be what you see when you’re finished.

Place your insulation between the joists and press it into place, just like you would with a wall.

You can continue to add rolls of unfaced insulation until you reach your desired R-Value.

Don’t forget about the attic door or hatch! Foamboards and weatherstripping can do the trick.

So that’s insulating attics with rolls or pre-cut batts! Want to see other places in your home where you may need to insulate? Check out these helpful videos.


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