Is it time for Blown In Insulation Installation in Cleburne? What is the best type to choose? Let us focus on four specific types. One is blown attic insulation the other is batt insulation. Each type has pros and cons. However, which is the best choice for you.
One of the best advantages of blown attic insulation over batt is that the blown style covers everything; while there can be open areas in the batt type.
When you’re looking to have your home or building insulated with spray foam insulation, you have a couple of product choices. Whether you go with closed foam or open foam insulation, the differences in their make will make a big difference in which one will work best for your needs.
Radiant barrier insulation has one reflective side that is made from an aluminum coating. Any radiant barrier insulation can be installed in an existing or new home. The reflective side of the barrier insulation is made to face the open air pocket of the surface.
Almost all Blown In Insulation Installation in Cleburne are tested and rated as fireproof. If for some strange reason you find one that is not, stay away from that product.
Insulating your attic is a great way to help lower your heating and cooling bills.
Using batts or rolls easily helps you achieve the recommended R-value for better insulating performance.
Ready? Okay, let’s go for it! Use layers of high R-Value insulation like R-30 or 38.
And depending on whether you have some insulation or no insulation, you may need a mix of Kraft-faced and unfaced, but we’ll get to that later.
Here are the tools, supplies and safety gear you’ll need for installation.
Let’s get started.
Insulation comes in rolls or pre-cut batts.
Either works, but we recommend using rolls in your attic to quickly cover a large area.
Just roll out the insulation and cut as needed.
Pre-cut batts are great for areas built at standard dimensions or when it’s easier to move small sections of insulation at a time.
If you’re adding insulation to what’s already there, you need to use unfaced insulation.
Putting Kraft-faced insulation over existing insulation will trap moisture and lead to mold and other problems.
That’s not good.
With existing insulation, all you need to do is add rolls of new unfaced insulation until you reach your desired R-Value.
If you’re insulating an attic that has no existing insulation, you could use Kraft-faced insulation on your first layer because that paper or vapor retarder, will help keep moisture from moving between your home below and the attic.
Before we start insulating the attic from scratch, let’s seal any air leaks with caulk for small gaps and foam for gaps up to three inches.
Then, we need to protect any objects that produce heat, like these can lights, by building a baffle.
A baffle is like a box that you place around the heat source.
You can construct one using cardboard or rigid foam.
This will need to keep insulation at least three inches away from the object.
Ventilation is incredibly important with attic insulation.
Be sure to use a vent chute so the fiberglass doesn’t come into contact with the underside of the roof.
Now that all that’s done, we can get down to it.
Measure your joist cavity opening to make sure your insulation will fit side to side and end to end.
As you cut down your roll, use a 2x4 and a utility knife on top of your base for a clean, easy cut.
If you have a narrow joist opening, you may need to trim it lengthwise before getting into the attic.
When you’re installing in your attic floor, place the paper side down against the floor to help prevent moisture from moving between your home below and the attic.
The unfaced side should be what you see when you’re finished.
Place your insulation between the joists and press it into place, just like you would with a wall.
You can continue to add rolls of unfaced insulation until you reach your desired R-Value.
Don’t forget about the attic door or hatch! Foamboards and weatherstripping can do the trick.
So that’s insulating attics with rolls or pre-cut batts! Want to see other places in your home where you may need to insulate? Check out these helpful videos.
The Importance of Cleaning Your Attic
Homsulate invite you to watch the unique retrofit wall foam insulation process and learn how you can sharply reduce energy bills, put a muzzle on unwanted outside noise and provide a literal firewall around your home protecting loved ones and your property.
Let's follow Homesulate to a job and see exactly how the retrofit wall foam insulation is installed.
Starting off with the overall process we drill a number of holes from top to bottom of the outside wall Homesulate wall foam insulation is an eco friendly, non destructive process that combines energy efficiency, noise cancelling and fire resistance all in one process.
When Homesulate completes the injection process it's time to clean up.
Certified Energy Star thermal wall cavity fill insulation, Homeulate wall foam holds an impressiver-value of 5.
1 per inch - 40% greater than existing fiberglass or cellulose Installed also as an acoustic wall cavity fill, Homesulate STC rating is an impressive 53 capable of reducing unwanted outside noise by 80% excellent for homes by busy roads airports and railroads.
For added safety, Homesulate wall foam carries a Class A a fire rating almost double the industry standard As Homsulate is injected in to existing cellulose, the existence cellulose compresses and bonds with Homesulate wall foam to form a solid, completely filled wall cavity.
Similar to injecting wall foam in to cellulose, a much better insulated wall is the outcome as Homesulate wall foam compresses the rolled insulation, adding another solid layer filling un-scene gaps and cracks that are often referred to as the silent energy bill killer.
Homesulate combines energy efficiency, noise canceling, and Class A fire rating.
All in a day's work.
Thank you for yourtime.
Remember it's never too late to Homesulate.