Is it time for Blown In Insulation Installation in Cleburne? What is the best type to choose? Let us focus on four specific types. One is blown attic insulation the other is batt insulation. Each type has pros and cons. However, which is the best choice for you.
One of the best advantages of blown attic insulation over batt is that the blown style covers everything; while there can be open areas in the batt type.
When you’re looking to have your home or building insulated with spray foam insulation, you have a couple of product choices. Whether you go with closed foam or open foam insulation, the differences in their make will make a big difference in which one will work best for your needs.
Radiant barrier insulation has one reflective side that is made from an aluminum coating. Any radiant barrier insulation can be installed in an existing or new home. The reflective side of the barrier insulation is made to face the open air pocket of the surface.
Almost all Blown In Insulation Installation in Cleburne are tested and rated as fireproof. If for some strange reason you find one that is not, stay away from that product.
Radiant Barrier Insulation Installation
Spray Foam Insulation is a two-component system typically consisting of petroleum oils, plastics, and resins. The polyurethane foam comes in two different forms, open cell and closed cell foam. The polyurethane spray foam is an extremely versatile material that is available in a variety of final physical properties and densities. Although the two types of foam are very similar in their chemical structures their characteristics and capabilities differ in many ways, which makes it necessary for the user to understand the differences of the two materials so he or she can determine which is the right foam for their particular application.
The open cell spray foam insulation contains a density of 0.5lb. per cubic foot. The greater the density of the foam the heavier, or stronger it will become. This particular type of polyurethane foam is referred to as "Open Cell" because of the nature of the chemical reaction during the installation process. When the polyurethane foam is being applied the tiny cells of the foam are broken causing air to fill the "open" space inside the material, resulting in a soft or spongy material. The open cell foam carries an R-Value of 5 to 5.5 per inch (R-Value is the measure of thermal resistance, which can be found by identifying the ratio of the temperature difference across an insulator and the heat flux). 0.5lb. foam products use significantly less material than 2lb. foam products do when completing the same sized job, making them attractive to an individual concerned with conserving the foam material. Due to the fact that open cell foam requires less material, the cost of the project is much cheaper than it would be if you were to apply closed cell foam. Although, Open cell foam is an efficient and economical product it contains some disadvantages in regards to closed cell foam. One of the open cells disadvantages is it has a lower R-Valuer per square inch than closed cell foam does and open cell foam is vapor permeable requiring it to be covered with a vapor retardant material. Although, open cell foam has some advantages and disadvantages it has been recognized as an excellent insulator, air sealant and sound barrier.
There are many things a home or building owner should take into consideration when considering the type of foam that should be used for their particular application. Although both types of foam are by far the best insulators on the market, each type of polyurethane foam possess its own characteristics and capabilities. It is imperative for the user to identify which foam is right for them before applying the product.
Attic Insulation - Energy Savings
Insulating your attic is a great way to help lower your heating and cooling bills.
Using batts or rolls easily helps you achieve the recommended R-value for better insulating performance.
Ready? Okay, let’s go for it! Use layers of high R-Value insulation like R-30 or 38.
And depending on whether you have some insulation or no insulation, you may need a mix of Kraft-faced and unfaced, but we’ll get to that later.
Here are the tools, supplies and safety gear you’ll need for installation.
Let’s get started.
Insulation comes in rolls or pre-cut batts.
Either works, but we recommend using rolls in your attic to quickly cover a large area.
Just roll out the insulation and cut as needed.
Pre-cut batts are great for areas built at standard dimensions or when it’s easier to move small sections of insulation at a time.
If you’re adding insulation to what’s already there, you need to use unfaced insulation.
Putting Kraft-faced insulation over existing insulation will trap moisture and lead to mold and other problems.
That’s not good.
With existing insulation, all you need to do is add rolls of new unfaced insulation until you reach your desired R-Value.
If you’re insulating an attic that has no existing insulation, you could use Kraft-faced insulation on your first layer because that paper or vapor retarder, will help keep moisture from moving between your home below and the attic.
Before we start insulating the attic from scratch, let’s seal any air leaks with caulk for small gaps and foam for gaps up to three inches.
Then, we need to protect any objects that produce heat, like these can lights, by building a baffle.
A baffle is like a box that you place around the heat source.
You can construct one using cardboard or rigid foam.
This will need to keep insulation at least three inches away from the object.
Ventilation is incredibly important with attic insulation.
Be sure to use a vent chute so the fiberglass doesn’t come into contact with the underside of the roof.
Now that all that’s done, we can get down to it.
Measure your joist cavity opening to make sure your insulation will fit side to side and end to end.
As you cut down your roll, use a 2x4 and a utility knife on top of your base for a clean, easy cut.
If you have a narrow joist opening, you may need to trim it lengthwise before getting into the attic.
When you’re installing in your attic floor, place the paper side down against the floor to help prevent moisture from moving between your home below and the attic.
The unfaced side should be what you see when you’re finished.
Place your insulation between the joists and press it into place, just like you would with a wall.
You can continue to add rolls of unfaced insulation until you reach your desired R-Value.
Don’t forget about the attic door or hatch! Foamboards and weatherstripping can do the trick.
So that’s insulating attics with rolls or pre-cut batts! Want to see other places in your home where you may need to insulate? Check out these helpful videos.