Is it time for Loft Insulation Cost in Hurst? What is the best type to choose? Let us focus on four specific types. One is blown attic insulation the other is batt insulation. Each type has pros and cons. However, which is the best choice for you.
One of the best advantages of blown attic insulation over batt is that the blown style covers everything; while there can be open areas in the batt type.
When you’re looking to have your home or building insulated with spray foam insulation, you have a couple of product choices. Whether you go with closed foam or open foam insulation, the differences in their make will make a big difference in which one will work best for your needs.
Radiant barrier insulation has one reflective side that is made from an aluminum coating. Any radiant barrier insulation can be installed in an existing or new home. The reflective side of the barrier insulation is made to face the open air pocket of the surface.
Almost all Loft Insulation Cost in Hurst are tested and rated as fireproof. If for some strange reason you find one that is not, stay away from that product.
The Basics of Blown Attic Insulation
Insulating your attic is a great way to help lower your heating and cooling bills.
Using batts or rolls easily helps you achieve the recommended R-value for better insulating performance.
Ready? Okay, let’s go for it! Use layers of high R-Value insulation like R-30 or 38.
And depending on whether you have some insulation or no insulation, you may need a mix of Kraft-faced and unfaced, but we’ll get to that later.
Here are the tools, supplies and safety gear you’ll need for installation.
Let’s get started.
Insulation comes in rolls or pre-cut batts.
Either works, but we recommend using rolls in your attic to quickly cover a large area.
Just roll out the insulation and cut as needed.
Pre-cut batts are great for areas built at standard dimensions or when it’s easier to move small sections of insulation at a time.
If you’re adding insulation to what’s already there, you need to use unfaced insulation.
Putting Kraft-faced insulation over existing insulation will trap moisture and lead to mold and other problems.
That’s not good.
With existing insulation, all you need to do is add rolls of new unfaced insulation until you reach your desired R-Value.
If you’re insulating an attic that has no existing insulation, you could use Kraft-faced insulation on your first layer because that paper or vapor retarder, will help keep moisture from moving between your home below and the attic.
Before we start insulating the attic from scratch, let’s seal any air leaks with caulk for small gaps and foam for gaps up to three inches.
Then, we need to protect any objects that produce heat, like these can lights, by building a baffle.
A baffle is like a box that you place around the heat source.
You can construct one using cardboard or rigid foam.
This will need to keep insulation at least three inches away from the object.
Ventilation is incredibly important with attic insulation.
Be sure to use a vent chute so the fiberglass doesn’t come into contact with the underside of the roof.
Now that all that’s done, we can get down to it.
Measure your joist cavity opening to make sure your insulation will fit side to side and end to end.
As you cut down your roll, use a 2x4 and a utility knife on top of your base for a clean, easy cut.
If you have a narrow joist opening, you may need to trim it lengthwise before getting into the attic.
When you’re installing in your attic floor, place the paper side down against the floor to help prevent moisture from moving between your home below and the attic.
The unfaced side should be what you see when you’re finished.
Place your insulation between the joists and press it into place, just like you would with a wall.
You can continue to add rolls of unfaced insulation until you reach your desired R-Value.
Don’t forget about the attic door or hatch! Foamboards and weatherstripping can do the trick.
So that’s insulating attics with rolls or pre-cut batts! Want to see other places in your home where you may need to insulate? Check out these helpful videos.
Spray Foam Insulation Basics
Adding insulation to your attic is a great way to save energy, but there are a number of choices that you need to sort through. What is the best type for your situation? What is the best location for this added insulation? How much should you add?
The first thing that you need to determine is how much insulation you already have. Measure the depth and determine the type. Then multiply the depth by the appropriate value: Cellulose: 3.1, Fiberglass Batt or Blown: 3.7, Closed-Cell Foam: 6.2, Open-Cell Foam: 3.6.
Before you move any further to insulate your attic, you should make sure that you have any knob and tube wiring in your attic that would be covered by insulation replaced. The wires in this type of system need to be in the open air in order to dissipate heat. If they are surrounded by insulation this will trap the heat and cause a fire hazard.
Once you have calculated the R-value of your insulation, you need to determine how much more you should add. Energy Starr has developed recommended levels of attic insulation for every Zone throughout the US. See map at Energy Star and chart below. However, what it boils down to is most houses don't have enough insulation. R-30 is the bare minimum and unless you live in south Florida, the recommended amount is twice that.
Radiant Barriers: work differently than thermal insulation. They reflect the heat away from the thermal insulation, instead of slowing the heat transfer through it. This effectively increases the performance of your thermal insulation in your attic by 50% to 70%. Radiant barriers work best if they are installed between the attic insulation and the roof sheathing, and when they are sloped so that dust will not accumulate on it as quickly. Furthermore, radiant barriers are fairly inexpensive and easy to install.
Your last step is to determine if you are going to add thermal insulation, a radiant barrier, or both. If your house already has what is the code minimum in many locations of R-30, adding a radiant barrier should boost its effectiveness to 45 or even 50. Or if you have an old house with 5 ½" of fiberglass or cellulose (R-17 to R-20) and you add another R-19 and a radiant barrier, you effective insulation value should be between 54 and 65.