Is it time for Insulation Installation Cost in Sunnyvale? What is the best type to choose? Let us focus on four specific types. One is blown attic insulation the other is batt insulation. Each type has pros and cons. However, which is the best choice for you.
One of the best advantages of blown attic insulation over batt is that the blown style covers everything; while there can be open areas in the batt type.
When you’re looking to have your home or building insulated with spray foam insulation, you have a couple of product choices. Whether you go with closed foam or open foam insulation, the differences in their make will make a big difference in which one will work best for your needs.
Radiant barrier insulation has one reflective side that is made from an aluminum coating. Any radiant barrier insulation can be installed in an existing or new home. The reflective side of the barrier insulation is made to face the open air pocket of the surface.
Almost all Insulation Installation Cost in Sunnyvale are tested and rated as fireproof. If for some strange reason you find one that is not, stay away from that product.
How To Install Blown In Attic Insulation
Spray Foam Insulation is a two-component system typically consisting of petroleum oils, plastics, and resins. The polyurethane foam comes in two different forms, open cell and closed cell foam. The polyurethane spray foam is an extremely versatile material that is available in a variety of final physical properties and densities. Although the two types of foam are very similar in their chemical structures their characteristics and capabilities differ in many ways, which makes it necessary for the user to understand the differences of the two materials so he or she can determine which is the right foam for their particular application.
The open cell spray foam insulation contains a density of 0.5lb. per cubic foot. The greater the density of the foam the heavier, or stronger it will become. This particular type of polyurethane foam is referred to as "Open Cell" because of the nature of the chemical reaction during the installation process. When the polyurethane foam is being applied the tiny cells of the foam are broken causing air to fill the "open" space inside the material, resulting in a soft or spongy material. The open cell foam carries an R-Value of 5 to 5.5 per inch (R-Value is the measure of thermal resistance, which can be found by identifying the ratio of the temperature difference across an insulator and the heat flux). 0.5lb. foam products use significantly less material than 2lb. foam products do when completing the same sized job, making them attractive to an individual concerned with conserving the foam material. Due to the fact that open cell foam requires less material, the cost of the project is much cheaper than it would be if you were to apply closed cell foam. Although, Open cell foam is an efficient and economical product it contains some disadvantages in regards to closed cell foam. One of the open cells disadvantages is it has a lower R-Valuer per square inch than closed cell foam does and open cell foam is vapor permeable requiring it to be covered with a vapor retardant material. Although, open cell foam has some advantages and disadvantages it has been recognized as an excellent insulator, air sealant and sound barrier.
There are many things a home or building owner should take into consideration when considering the type of foam that should be used for their particular application. Although both types of foam are by far the best insulators on the market, each type of polyurethane foam possess its own characteristics and capabilities. It is imperative for the user to identify which foam is right for them before applying the product.
House attic mold is one of the most "popular" items in my property inspection reports. And now is time for an explanation of how to kill mold and / or how to clean mold in the attic. But before I do that, let me give you a little advice, something to consider before you sign a few (if you're lucky) thousand dollars contract agreement with a mold remediation company.
Attic mold remediation TIP - an alternative (to consider):
Let us assume that you are in the middle of a real-estate transaction, and the home inspector just revealed to you, that your entire house attic is contaminated with mold.
If you have a brand new roof, you can only blame yourself or try to blame the roofing contractor for not checking the attic before replacing the roof (he will laugh at you unless you've actually asked the guy to check the attic before the roof replacement). If you have an older roof, the importance of this advice is even greater.
Call at least 2-3 mold remediation companies for an estimate - specify to the representatives, that you not only want to have the mold removed, but also attic ventilation system corrected / installed if necessary / ask if the attic insulation requires replacement.
With the numbers from the mold remediation contractors, call 2-3 roofing contractors, and ask them for a quote on the roof replacement cost including decking boards / plywood (ask the roofer to check the attic area), attic ventilation improvement, and insulation if necessary.
Be cautious if they only suggest humidistat controlled power vent installation - without properly functioning soffit vents or any type of vents along the lower portion of the roof this might not be an adequate solution.
If the attic insulation replacement is not required (it most cases it will not be possible to tell without laboratory testing), make sure it's sealed with plastic foil before the roof and its decking replacement. Fold the foil sealing its contents after the contaminated decking has been removed, and dispose of as a regular waste (EPA recommendation).
I personally wouldn't even attempt to do it myself, so my suggestion is:
Use a professional mold remediation company:
- check their background and check it manually by calling their clients
- ask for clients who had their attic mold remediated approximately 1 year ago - it usually takes a winter for the mold to start growing again if the job wasn't fully completed
- Insist on removing the mold completely instead of encapsulating it (Media Blasting methods give the best results).
- Encapsulation is simply a process of covering the mold contaminated surface with paint (paint like product) that contains (or at least some of them do) mold killing chemicals
If your attic mold is properly removed and all of the issues responsible for its growth corrected, which is even more important than mold removing, it will not re-grow / no need for encapsulating.
- Hire a different contractor for mold testing and mold remediation to eliminate conflict of interest.
- Make sure that you perform an independent clearance test after the mold remediation process completion.
- Clearance test is to determine if there are any mold spores remaining in the previously contaminated area
All wood (framing and decking) surfaces should be perfectly clean (like brand new), unless there was some rotting that resulted from leaking roof or extremely humid conditions in the attic - those sections of wood should be either replaced or reinforced from underneath. You don't want anyone to fall through the roof while servicing it or just inspecting.