Is it time for Ceiling Insulation Installation in Richardson? What is the best type to choose? Let us focus on four specific types. One is blown attic insulation the other is batt insulation. Each type has pros and cons. However, which is the best choice for you.
One of the best advantages of blown attic insulation over batt is that the blown style covers everything; while there can be open areas in the batt type.
When you’re looking to have your home or building insulated with spray foam insulation, you have a couple of product choices. Whether you go with closed foam or open foam insulation, the differences in their make will make a big difference in which one will work best for your needs.
Radiant barrier insulation has one reflective side that is made from an aluminum coating. Any radiant barrier insulation can be installed in an existing or new home. The reflective side of the barrier insulation is made to face the open air pocket of the surface.
Almost all Ceiling Insulation Installation in Richardson are tested and rated as fireproof. If for some strange reason you find one that is not, stay away from that product.
The Cost of Spray Foam Insulation
Are you considering insulating your home? You might be wondering what type of insulation would be the best fit for you. It is imperative to have the proper amount of insulation in your home. Insulation is rated in terms of thermal resistance often referred to as "R-value", which indicates the resistance to heat flow. The higher the R-value, the greater the effectiveness of the insulator will be. The R-value of the insulation depends on the type of material, its thickness and its density. The three most common types of insulation used in residential or commercial buildings are fiberglass batts, blown cellulose and polyurethane foam.
Fiberglass insulation is made from molten glass and recycled industrial waste. The fiberglass insulation carries an R-value of 3.14 per inch. Although, the fiberglass insulation is cheap there are many deficiencies with the product. Gaps tend to form between each fiberglass batt (known as bypasses) these gaps can become sites of air infiltration or condensation. Each of these deficiencies will reduce the effectiveness of the insulation resulting in a lowered R-value. A vapor barrier must be included in the installation of the fiberglass to prevent condensation and mold form growing. Fiberglass insulation is also hazardous to your health
Blown cellulose insulation is 100% natural and is made from recycled newspapers. The cellulose is treated with a flame retardant and insect repellent to prevent potential fire risks and wildlife infestations. Blown cellulose has an R-value of 3.70 per inch. Unlike fiberglass, Cellulose contains some moisture control characteristics, which prevents the accumulation of condensation and the growth of mold.
Another commonly used insulator in residential homes and commercial buildings is Polyurethane Foam, also referred to as "Spray Foam". The polyurethane foam comes in two different forms, open cell and closed cell. The open cell spray foam insulation is a low-density material. The open cell foam carries an R-Value of 5 to 5.5 per inch. The second type of polyurethane foam available is referred to as "closed-cell foam". Closed-Cell is a high-density foam carrying an R-value of 7.5 per inch. The closed cell foam is dense enough to improve the structural integrity of the building it is applied to. Some advantages of the Spray foam insulation include; air sealing in gaps and penetrations where blown cellulose and fiberglass bats cannot reach, the foam can fill wall cavities in finished walls, it can also act as a sound barrier and can increase the structural integrity of a building as well as provide its own vapor barrier. Spray foam insulation is the most efficient insulating product in the market today.
What are Spray Foam Insulation Features and Benefits?
Insulating your attic is a great way to help lower your heating and cooling bills.
Using batts or rolls easily helps you achieve the recommended R-value for better insulating performance.
Ready? Okay, let’s go for it! Use layers of high R-Value insulation like R-30 or 38.
And depending on whether you have some insulation or no insulation, you may need a mix of Kraft-faced and unfaced, but we’ll get to that later.
Here are the tools, supplies and safety gear you’ll need for installation.
Let’s get started.
Insulation comes in rolls or pre-cut batts.
Either works, but we recommend using rolls in your attic to quickly cover a large area.
Just roll out the insulation and cut as needed.
Pre-cut batts are great for areas built at standard dimensions or when it’s easier to move small sections of insulation at a time.
If you’re adding insulation to what’s already there, you need to use unfaced insulation.
Putting Kraft-faced insulation over existing insulation will trap moisture and lead to mold and other problems.
That’s not good.
With existing insulation, all you need to do is add rolls of new unfaced insulation until you reach your desired R-Value.
If you’re insulating an attic that has no existing insulation, you could use Kraft-faced insulation on your first layer because that paper or vapor retarder, will help keep moisture from moving between your home below and the attic.
Before we start insulating the attic from scratch, let’s seal any air leaks with caulk for small gaps and foam for gaps up to three inches.
Then, we need to protect any objects that produce heat, like these can lights, by building a baffle.
A baffle is like a box that you place around the heat source.
You can construct one using cardboard or rigid foam.
This will need to keep insulation at least three inches away from the object.
Ventilation is incredibly important with attic insulation.
Be sure to use a vent chute so the fiberglass doesn’t come into contact with the underside of the roof.
Now that all that’s done, we can get down to it.
Measure your joist cavity opening to make sure your insulation will fit side to side and end to end.
As you cut down your roll, use a 2x4 and a utility knife on top of your base for a clean, easy cut.
If you have a narrow joist opening, you may need to trim it lengthwise before getting into the attic.
When you’re installing in your attic floor, place the paper side down against the floor to help prevent moisture from moving between your home below and the attic.
The unfaced side should be what you see when you’re finished.
Place your insulation between the joists and press it into place, just like you would with a wall.
You can continue to add rolls of unfaced insulation until you reach your desired R-Value.
Don’t forget about the attic door or hatch! Foamboards and weatherstripping can do the trick.
So that’s insulating attics with rolls or pre-cut batts! Want to see other places in your home where you may need to insulate? Check out these helpful videos.