Blown Attic Insulation Cost Flower Mound

Is it time for Loft Insulation Installers in Flower Mound? What is the best type to choose? Let us focus on four specific types. One is blown attic insulation the other is batt insulation. Each type has pros and cons. However, which is the best choice for you.

Blown In Attic Insulation

One of the best advantages of blown attic insulation over batt is that the blown style covers everything; while there can be open areas in the batt type.

Blown In Attic Insulation

When you’re looking to have your home or building insulated with spray foam insulation, you have a couple of product choices. Whether you go with closed foam or open foam insulation, the differences in their make will make a big difference in which one will work best for your needs.

Radiant barrier insulation has one reflective side that is made from an aluminum coating. Any radiant barrier insulation can be installed in an existing or new home. The reflective side of the barrier insulation is made to face the open air pocket of the surface.

Almost all Loft Insulation Installers in Flower Mound are tested and rated as fireproof. If for some strange reason you find one that is not, stay away from that product.

Ceiling Insulation

Radiant Barrier Insulation

 If you are one of the millions of homeowners in the United States or in Canada that have recently discovered your house is suffering from mold in your attic, and are looking for solid answers, I know it can be extremely confusing.

There are as many companies out there promoting their products, as there are offering their services to correct the mold and clean it up. It can be extremely bewildering and if you haven't discovered it already, I am sure you will. There are many reasons for this. First there are no national guidelines that are required to be followed if you have a mold problem.  Secondly the ones that do exist, are incomplete and many times contradict one another!

This article will help you sort out the BS (that's baloney stuff folks) specifically the BS technique of dry ice blasting and shall also help you to find a contractor that will actually solve your problem.

A little background about mold in attics. Mold in attics is primarily caused by improper ventilation. In the northern climates this is often due to heat loss in the winter months when the hot air escaping from the house condenses against the cold boards of the attic, and is sometimes exacerbated by an improperly discharged bathroom fan. In the south it can be caused by an improperly functioning HVAC unit located into the attic letting cold air escape and condense against the hot boards of the attic or by an improperly discharged bathroom fan or dryer vent. In both climates what happens is moisture becomes trapped in the attic areas and accumulates on the boards of the attic sheathing and rafters, where mold starts to grow.

Four things are required for mold to grow. One: a spore must be present, which is like a mold seed (hint there are spores in virtually every breath you have ever taken this means they are very abundant but nearly invisible, 10,000 of them can fit on the head of a pin). Two: a food source  must be present, this is something which was once alive or is still alive, preferably to the mold something that is cellulose based (hint this is any plant based organic matter like the boards in your attic and the rafters, even the paper backing on the rolled  insulation can be a food source, not to mention the paper on the backside of the ceiling drywall under the insulation); Three: the right temperature mold must be present, molds have a narrow temperature range in which they thrive; usually between 20 and 100 degrees Fahrenheit with the majority living between 40 degrees and 90 degrees ; Fourth:and lastly, water must be present (hint  you can stir all of the above three things in a pot and mold  will not grow without water, water is essential to mold growth but may be present as vapour only, not necessarily as a liquid).

Problem Solved Right?? Wrong!

Well, whats wrong you ask? Plenty! First the spores are lofted into the air where they become invisible to the naked eye, many times these spores are left floating, and when the contractor removes his equipment with the problem looking solved, they remain lurking and floating; just waiting to land and recontaminate the structure!

But the most important reason it is ineffective, has to do with the way mold grows. Remember how we talked about the dandelion roots? Well the ice blasting does a great job at removing the pigment from the mold.  This is in the surface layer with the fruit bodies. What it doesn't do is to remove the roots!

Now don't get me wrong it is completely possible to ice blast away enough wood to remove the roots . But in order to accomplish this the contractor has to grind away at the wood till 1/2 inch has been removed! Remember most attics are only 1/2 inch thick plywood in the first place!  Additionally, if the rafters are blasted away 1/2 inch around all three exposed side your roof is likely to collapse!  This process is just another one of the many gimmicks that have been tried to charge high prices and to stand out in the marketplace.

That's why we developed a completely safe time tested non toxic to people process that completely eliminates mold without destroying the structure and leaving your house mold free permanently! Remember to hire a contractor whose system was designed with eliminating the roots of the mold problem not just the stains the mold makes! Save money don't pay to have your mold fixed twice! Don't use dry ice blasting!

Sheet Insulation

Is Radiant Barrier Worth Adding To Your House?

Adding insulation to your attic is a great way to save energy, but there are a number of choices that you need to sort through. What is the best type for your situation? What is the best location for this added insulation? How much should you add?

The first thing that you need to determine is how much insulation you already have. Measure the depth and determine the type. Then multiply the depth by the appropriate value: Cellulose: 3.1, Fiberglass Batt or Blown: 3.7, Closed-Cell Foam: 6.2, Open-Cell Foam: 3.6.

Before you move any further to insulate your attic, you should make sure that you have any knob and tube wiring in your attic that would be covered by insulation replaced. The wires in this type of system need to be in the open air in order to dissipate heat. If they are surrounded by insulation this will trap the heat and cause a fire hazard.

Once you have calculated the R-value of your insulation, you need to determine how much more you should add. Energy Starr has developed recommended levels of attic insulation for every Zone throughout the US. See map at Energy Star and chart below. However, what it boils down to is most houses don't have enough insulation. R-30 is the bare minimum and unless you live in south Florida, the recommended amount is twice that.

Radiant Barriers: work differently than thermal insulation. They reflect the heat away from the thermal insulation, instead of slowing the heat transfer through it. This effectively increases the performance of your thermal insulation in your attic by 50% to 70%. Radiant barriers work best if they are installed between the attic insulation and the roof sheathing, and when they are sloped so that dust will not accumulate on it as quickly. Furthermore, radiant barriers are fairly inexpensive and easy to install.

Your last step is to determine if you are going to add thermal insulation, a radiant barrier, or both. If your house already has what is the code minimum in many locations of R-30, adding a radiant barrier should boost its effectiveness to 45 or even 50. Or if you have an old house with 5 ½" of fiberglass or cellulose (R-17 to R-20) and you add another R-19 and a radiant barrier, you effective insulation value should be between 54 and 65.


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