Is it time for Home Insulation Cost in Argyle? What is the best type to choose? Let us focus on four specific types. One is blown attic insulation the other is batt insulation. Each type has pros and cons. However, which is the best choice for you.
One of the best advantages of blown attic insulation over batt is that the blown style covers everything; while there can be open areas in the batt type.
When you’re looking to have your home or building insulated with spray foam insulation, you have a couple of product choices. Whether you go with closed foam or open foam insulation, the differences in their make will make a big difference in which one will work best for your needs.
Radiant barrier insulation has one reflective side that is made from an aluminum coating. Any radiant barrier insulation can be installed in an existing or new home. The reflective side of the barrier insulation is made to face the open air pocket of the surface.
Almost all Home Insulation Cost in Argyle are tested and rated as fireproof. If for some strange reason you find one that is not, stay away from that product.
Attic Insulation What is Important to Know
House attic mold is one of the most "popular" items in my property inspection reports. And now is time for an explanation of how to kill mold and / or how to clean mold in the attic. But before I do that, let me give you a little advice, something to consider before you sign a few (if you're lucky) thousand dollars contract agreement with a mold remediation company.
Attic mold remediation TIP - an alternative (to consider):
Let us assume that you are in the middle of a real-estate transaction, and the home inspector just revealed to you, that your entire house attic is contaminated with mold.
If you have a brand new roof, you can only blame yourself or try to blame the roofing contractor for not checking the attic before replacing the roof (he will laugh at you unless you've actually asked the guy to check the attic before the roof replacement). If you have an older roof, the importance of this advice is even greater.
Call at least 2-3 mold remediation companies for an estimate - specify to the representatives, that you not only want to have the mold removed, but also attic ventilation system corrected / installed if necessary / ask if the attic insulation requires replacement.
With the numbers from the mold remediation contractors, call 2-3 roofing contractors, and ask them for a quote on the roof replacement cost including decking boards / plywood (ask the roofer to check the attic area), attic ventilation improvement, and insulation if necessary.
Be cautious if they only suggest humidistat controlled power vent installation - without properly functioning soffit vents or any type of vents along the lower portion of the roof this might not be an adequate solution.
If the attic insulation replacement is not required (it most cases it will not be possible to tell without laboratory testing), make sure it's sealed with plastic foil before the roof and its decking replacement. Fold the foil sealing its contents after the contaminated decking has been removed, and dispose of as a regular waste (EPA recommendation).
I personally wouldn't even attempt to do it myself, so my suggestion is:
Use a professional mold remediation company:
- check their background and check it manually by calling their clients
- ask for clients who had their attic mold remediated approximately 1 year ago - it usually takes a winter for the mold to start growing again if the job wasn't fully completed
- Insist on removing the mold completely instead of encapsulating it (Media Blasting methods give the best results).
- Encapsulation is simply a process of covering the mold contaminated surface with paint (paint like product) that contains (or at least some of them do) mold killing chemicals
If your attic mold is properly removed and all of the issues responsible for its growth corrected, which is even more important than mold removing, it will not re-grow / no need for encapsulating.
- Hire a different contractor for mold testing and mold remediation to eliminate conflict of interest.
- Make sure that you perform an independent clearance test after the mold remediation process completion.
- Clearance test is to determine if there are any mold spores remaining in the previously contaminated area
All wood (framing and decking) surfaces should be perfectly clean (like brand new), unless there was some rotting that resulted from leaking roof or extremely humid conditions in the attic - those sections of wood should be either replaced or reinforced from underneath. You don't want anyone to fall through the roof while servicing it or just inspecting.
Spray Foam Insulation Basics
Insulating your attic is a great way to help lower your heating and cooling bills.
Using batts or rolls easily helps you achieve the recommended R-value for better insulating performance.
Ready? Okay, let’s go for it! Use layers of high R-Value insulation like R-30 or 38.
And depending on whether you have some insulation or no insulation, you may need a mix of Kraft-faced and unfaced, but we’ll get to that later.
Here are the tools, supplies and safety gear you’ll need for installation.
Let’s get started.
Insulation comes in rolls or pre-cut batts.
Either works, but we recommend using rolls in your attic to quickly cover a large area.
Just roll out the insulation and cut as needed.
Pre-cut batts are great for areas built at standard dimensions or when it’s easier to move small sections of insulation at a time.
If you’re adding insulation to what’s already there, you need to use unfaced insulation.
Putting Kraft-faced insulation over existing insulation will trap moisture and lead to mold and other problems.
That’s not good.
With existing insulation, all you need to do is add rolls of new unfaced insulation until you reach your desired R-Value.
If you’re insulating an attic that has no existing insulation, you could use Kraft-faced insulation on your first layer because that paper or vapor retarder, will help keep moisture from moving between your home below and the attic.
Before we start insulating the attic from scratch, let’s seal any air leaks with caulk for small gaps and foam for gaps up to three inches.
Then, we need to protect any objects that produce heat, like these can lights, by building a baffle.
A baffle is like a box that you place around the heat source.
You can construct one using cardboard or rigid foam.
This will need to keep insulation at least three inches away from the object.
Ventilation is incredibly important with attic insulation.
Be sure to use a vent chute so the fiberglass doesn’t come into contact with the underside of the roof.
Now that all that’s done, we can get down to it.
Measure your joist cavity opening to make sure your insulation will fit side to side and end to end.
As you cut down your roll, use a 2x4 and a utility knife on top of your base for a clean, easy cut.
If you have a narrow joist opening, you may need to trim it lengthwise before getting into the attic.
When you’re installing in your attic floor, place the paper side down against the floor to help prevent moisture from moving between your home below and the attic.
The unfaced side should be what you see when you’re finished.
Place your insulation between the joists and press it into place, just like you would with a wall.
You can continue to add rolls of unfaced insulation until you reach your desired R-Value.
Don’t forget about the attic door or hatch! Foamboards and weatherstripping can do the trick.
So that’s insulating attics with rolls or pre-cut batts! Want to see other places in your home where you may need to insulate? Check out these helpful videos.