Is it time for Cost Attic Insulation in Burleson? What is the best type to choose? Let us focus on four specific types. One is blown attic insulation the other is batt insulation. Each type has pros and cons. However, which is the best choice for you.
One of the best advantages of blown attic insulation over batt is that the blown style covers everything; while there can be open areas in the batt type.
When you’re looking to have your home or building insulated with spray foam insulation, you have a couple of product choices. Whether you go with closed foam or open foam insulation, the differences in their make will make a big difference in which one will work best for your needs.
Radiant barrier insulation has one reflective side that is made from an aluminum coating. Any radiant barrier insulation can be installed in an existing or new home. The reflective side of the barrier insulation is made to face the open air pocket of the surface.
Almost all Cost Attic Insulation in Burleson are tested and rated as fireproof. If for some strange reason you find one that is not, stay away from that product.
Attic Insulation What is Important to Know
If you are one of the millions of homeowners in the United States or in Canada that have recently discovered your house is suffering from mold in your attic, and are looking for solid answers, I know it can be extremely confusing.
There are as many companies out there promoting their products, as there are offering their services to correct the mold and clean it up. It can be extremely bewildering and if you haven't discovered it already, I am sure you will. There are many reasons for this. First there are no national guidelines that are required to be followed if you have a mold problem. Secondly the ones that do exist, are incomplete and many times contradict one another!
This article will help you sort out the BS (that's baloney stuff folks) specifically the BS technique of dry ice blasting and shall also help you to find a contractor that will actually solve your problem.
A little background about mold in attics. Mold in attics is primarily caused by improper ventilation. In the northern climates this is often due to heat loss in the winter months when the hot air escaping from the house condenses against the cold boards of the attic, and is sometimes exacerbated by an improperly discharged bathroom fan. In the south it can be caused by an improperly functioning HVAC unit located into the attic letting cold air escape and condense against the hot boards of the attic or by an improperly discharged bathroom fan or dryer vent. In both climates what happens is moisture becomes trapped in the attic areas and accumulates on the boards of the attic sheathing and rafters, where mold starts to grow.
Four things are required for mold to grow. One: a spore must be present, which is like a mold seed (hint there are spores in virtually every breath you have ever taken this means they are very abundant but nearly invisible, 10,000 of them can fit on the head of a pin). Two: a food source must be present, this is something which was once alive or is still alive, preferably to the mold something that is cellulose based (hint this is any plant based organic matter like the boards in your attic and the rafters, even the paper backing on the rolled insulation can be a food source, not to mention the paper on the backside of the ceiling drywall under the insulation); Three: the right temperature mold must be present, molds have a narrow temperature range in which they thrive; usually between 20 and 100 degrees Fahrenheit with the majority living between 40 degrees and 90 degrees ; Fourth:and lastly, water must be present (hint you can stir all of the above three things in a pot and mold will not grow without water, water is essential to mold growth but may be present as vapour only, not necessarily as a liquid).
Problem Solved Right?? Wrong!
Well, whats wrong you ask? Plenty! First the spores are lofted into the air where they become invisible to the naked eye, many times these spores are left floating, and when the contractor removes his equipment with the problem looking solved, they remain lurking and floating; just waiting to land and recontaminate the structure!
But the most important reason it is ineffective, has to do with the way mold grows. Remember how we talked about the dandelion roots? Well the ice blasting does a great job at removing the pigment from the mold. This is in the surface layer with the fruit bodies. What it doesn't do is to remove the roots!
Now don't get me wrong it is completely possible to ice blast away enough wood to remove the roots . But in order to accomplish this the contractor has to grind away at the wood till 1/2 inch has been removed! Remember most attics are only 1/2 inch thick plywood in the first place! Additionally, if the rafters are blasted away 1/2 inch around all three exposed side your roof is likely to collapse! This process is just another one of the many gimmicks that have been tried to charge high prices and to stand out in the marketplace.
That's why we developed a completely safe time tested non toxic to people process that completely eliminates mold without destroying the structure and leaving your house mold free permanently! Remember to hire a contractor whose system was designed with eliminating the roots of the mold problem not just the stains the mold makes! Save money don't pay to have your mold fixed twice! Don't use dry ice blasting!
How to Evaluate the Types and Amount of Insulation
I have just completed an addition to my house. I've heard that blown in insulation is better than batts since covers the joists completely and leaves no open areas. Do you have any do it yourself suggestions?
Yes you are correct. Blown in insulation is better that batts when installed properly as it does seal the attic better.
First you need to measure your attic area that you plan on insulating. Most attics require a value of R-30, R-38 or R-49, depending on your climate and location. Once you know the square footage of your attic you can determine how much insulation you'll need by simple looking on the chart located on the bag of insulation.
Before you get started you will need to determine what materials you will need. Assuming your home has recessed lights, ceiling and bathroom fans and eave vents you will need the following tools and materials:
Loose Fill Insulation
Staple Hammer and Staples
Insulation Blowing Machine (Available at your local rental store)
I've found blowing insulation into the attic is a simple process. Start and the far ends of the attic. Going back and forth make sure its level and smooth. Make sure to get all areas of the attic and don't fill any vents or recessed light areas. Take a tape measure with you and check the levels once in a while. As an example, if your installing an R-38 of fiberglass insulation you would want it to measure 16 inches deep. As you work your way back near the attic access make sure your helper is getting that excess hose out of the way. When you get to about 6 feet from the access hole stop the machine so you can get on the ladder. Once on the ladder finish installing, making sure to bring the level evenly against the dam you previously built.
The final step is to place a piece of batt insulation in the access hole and carefully put the attic hole lid back into place. Now your done! Stay out of that attic as much as possible from this point as loose fill insulation that has been stepped on or crushed looses it's R value.