Is it time for Spray Foam Installers in Lake Dallas? What is the best type to choose? Let us focus on four specific types. One is blown attic insulation the other is batt insulation. Each type has pros and cons. However, which is the best choice for you.
One of the best advantages of blown attic insulation over batt is that the blown style covers everything; while there can be open areas in the batt type.
When you’re looking to have your home or building insulated with spray foam insulation, you have a couple of product choices. Whether you go with closed foam or open foam insulation, the differences in their make will make a big difference in which one will work best for your needs.
Radiant barrier insulation has one reflective side that is made from an aluminum coating. Any radiant barrier insulation can be installed in an existing or new home. The reflective side of the barrier insulation is made to face the open air pocket of the surface.
Almost all Spray Foam Installers in Lake Dallas are tested and rated as fireproof. If for some strange reason you find one that is not, stay away from that product.
How To Install Blown In Attic Insulation
Okay, it’s starting to get cold in Pittsburgh.
And today I’m going to put off raking all these leaves because I’m going to have mybuddy, Bill, insulate his walls and his ceilings over his new addition at his home.
So we’regoing to show you how to do that and save a ton of money by insulating your home.
Andwe’ve got some really great tips for you.
Plus, an awesome surprise at the end.
So let’sget started.
Okay, these are all the supplies I need forinstalling insulation: respirator, eyewear, you got a razor, measuring tape, somethingto cut insulation with, gloves, and then I just pack a chisel so I can push the insulationinto certain places that are hard to reach.
Okay, now it’s time to go to Bill’s.
Okay so we’re over at Bill’s house.
We’re going to be putting in an insulation.
Why?Why are we putting in an insulation? Because we need an addition on our house.
Why do weneed an addition on our house? We don’t have enough bedrooms.
We got one baby, twobabies, and a third baby.
So we ran out of bedrooms in the house.
So we had to buildanother bedroom.
So we have our little helpers here, but Billand I are going to be putting in an insulation.
So we’re going to show you how to do thatright now.
For Bill’s addition, we’ve actually got2” x 6” framing.
We’re using the R-21 Kraft-Faced Batts because it fits perfectlyinto the 2” x 6” framing.
This is actually 5 ½” thick x 15” wide x 93” long.
Nowthe Kraft-Faced which has paper on it, like this, is a vapor retarder.
What this doesis prevent mold and mildew from getting inside the stud bay.
The reason why we’re using an R-21 is when you’re building an addition on your house,R-21 is the minimum R value that you need for the current Energy Code standards.
Thenice thing about Johns Manville products is that they’re formaldehyde-free.
And if you’vegot kids or you want to actually keep yourself safe, formaldehyde-free is the way to go.
So why do you want to insulate your house? It’s pretty much a no-brainer, right? Yougot to keep it warm.
It’s… what were you saying? It’s got thermal and sound control.
Which is great for when you have kids.
Right? Or if you live in a busy area—let’ssay you live in the city, and you want to try to cut down on noise pollution—addinginsulation to the walls is perfect for that.
The other thing to keep in mind is this—youjust put in a new HVAC system, right?—so by putting an insulation, you cut down onthe stress of constantly running your heating or cooling system.
So it really helps outin that way, too.
So how do you pick out the insulation thatyou want? So in this case, we have 2x6’s, and they are 16” on center.
So you wantto pick out the insulation that fits into the stud bay.
Because they have differentstud bay widths that you can work with.
Different house builders will build in different ways.
Most houses are going to be 16” on center, so most of your stud cavity bays are goingto be 14 ½” wide.
Now there are other framing methods where you can go up to 24” wide.
In which case you would want something that’s 22 ½” wide batts.
So for the ceiling we’re actually using R-38.
And Bill’s ceilings here are… whatare these joist sizes? These are framed 24” on center.
So we got a 22 ½” wide battfor the ceilings.
I’m measuring the inside of my wall bayto determine the height for the insulation that we need to have here.
One thing thatwe messed up is that I ordered insulation that’s slightly too tall.
All you need todo is just take a framing square such as this.
Press down real hard till you get a nice spotto cut with.
A standard utility knife is all you need to cut this.
And take a few passesat it just to make sure you get all the way through to the insulation.
There’s a couple of different tools that you can use to cut this.
A utility knife isprobably one of the most common ways.
This is an actual insulation knife designed forcutting insulation.
It works very well for that.
We have electrical wiring that’s going through some of these stud bays.
And it’s recommendedthat you fill every hole where you have penetrations for where your wires is.
We just got a littlebit of caulking here.
And we’re just going to fill each one of these holes before weget insulating.
So what we want to do is get this right upto the top.
You don’t want to smash it in there.
You just want it to fit very nicely.
I’m just going to tuck this in all the way down.
And if you notice there’s an electricalline here.
There are two different ways to handle electrical line.
They say the preferredmethod is to split the batt down center, take half of it, tuck it behind the wire so youget a nice layer of insulation behind that wire so you get nice, pure insulation allthe way from floor to ceiling.
Most importantly, you just want this to fit exactly right.
Youdon’t want to smash it down in.
You don’t want it to be tucked.
And you don’t wantit to be stretched.
You want it to go in as comfortable as it can.
The outlet box, whenever we stuff the insulation here, you don’t want to just jam the insulationin around it because, like I said before, if the insulation is smashed it’s not goingto work as good.
You want this stuff to be puffy and fluffy just the way that it’sdesigned to be installed.
At this point, this is where my insulation knife will come inhandy.
We’re going to go right to the top edge of the box here and just cut the insulationin a square shape—same size as the electrical box.
Remove this little square here.
I lefta little bit here.
That should be enough to fit behind the box.
I tuck this in behindthe box.
And when we’re done, it should have a nice, even fit around that box.
All right, so while Bill is finishing off the insulation, I wanted to tell you thatJohns Manville just sponsored this video, and this is part of their Winter Warrior program.
And we really want to encourage you to—when you insulate your house if you’re usinga Johns Manville insulation—share that on social media and use #winterwarrior.
Thatway you can inspire other people to make their homes more comfortable this winter.
You canalso find the products that we’re using in this video at Lowe’s and Home Depot.
And if you don’t have one of those stores in your area, you can go to Johns Manvillewebsite and find a store locator in your area.
Now that I got the insulation stuffed in thewall, I ran my hand along it.
Make sure it’s nice and smooth in place, you’ll noticethat it has these little tabs on here.
Now there’s a couple of ways to install thisinsulation.
There’s what’s called a friction-fit insulation, which this is not that type ofinsulation.
This one is meant to be stapled.
So you could either surface-staple to theface of the stud or you could staple to the inside of the stud.
Now your drywallers willappreciate it if you staple to the inside of the stud.
Because when you staple to theoutside, if your staple doesn’t sink all the way, it can cause a lump in the drywall,and you don’t want that.
So Johns Manville suggests for their product is that you stapleevery 6” to 8” along the inside of the stud.
Now when you staple this, you’ll bepushing the insulation back, but they will just puff back up and come back to the rightdimension.
All right, we have a little bit of a spacehere between this stud and that one.
So we need to actually cut down some of the insulationfor the space.
Bill’s doing the exact same thing with these tiny, little piece of insulationthat is above the head or for the window.
You got to cut them to size, make sure thatthey’re tight and flush with all of the framing.
Otherwise your insulation is notgoing to do its job.
Where you have windows you definitely wantto use expanding foam around the window frame to cut down on any draft coming into the house.
So for the ceiling, we’re going to be using the R-38 13” thick x 24” wide x 48”long pieces.
Well, I’m about to install the Johns Manvilleceiling insulation R-38.
As he said it’s 13” thick.
And I was wondering, “How amI going to get a 13” thick 24” wide batt in the ceiling?” Well they make them in48” sections to make it easier to install this in the ceiling.
I was very glad to seethat.
Okay, well we got one bay of the ceiling filledin with all the insulation.
Now I have all these seams here where they’re separated.
This just needs to be taped together with a polytape or a tape that is designed fortaping insulation.
It’s also to make sure that the vapor barrier is continuous throughoutthe entire ceiling plane.
Also done in the walls as well.
The walls, you really shouldn’thave any seams that need tape.
But if you have any tears or anything like that in youmoisture-resistant layer, then that’s where you’re going to want to install polytapejust to seal all that up and make sure it’s air-tight.
All right, so that’s how you insulate your walls and your ceilings.
We hope that youlike this video and got some great tips.
Now here’s the surprise.
We’re going to begiving away a $100 gift certificate to one of our fans.
So how do you enter into thegiveaway? Well, add a comment below here on YouTube.
Or if you want to, you can also adda comment over on Home Repair Tutor.
That will automatically enter you into the $100giveaway.
It’s going to be a gift certificate.
It’s pretty sweet.
So you can use that tobuy insulation or any tool that you want.
So thanks for watching today’s video.
Wehad a great time making it.
We hope that you got some awesome tips.
We’ll see you nextweek.
Figured out that R-38 makes a great bed—justin case I get kicked out of my house.
How to Evaluate the Types and Amount of Insulation
Adding insulation to your attic is a great way to save energy, but there are a number of choices that you need to sort through. What is the best type for your situation? What is the best location for this added insulation? How much should you add?
The first thing that you need to determine is how much insulation you already have. Measure the depth and determine the type. Then multiply the depth by the appropriate value: Cellulose: 3.1, Fiberglass Batt or Blown: 3.7, Closed-Cell Foam: 6.2, Open-Cell Foam: 3.6.
Before you move any further to insulate your attic, you should make sure that you have any knob and tube wiring in your attic that would be covered by insulation replaced. The wires in this type of system need to be in the open air in order to dissipate heat. If they are surrounded by insulation this will trap the heat and cause a fire hazard.
Once you have calculated the R-value of your insulation, you need to determine how much more you should add. Energy Starr has developed recommended levels of attic insulation for every Zone throughout the US. See map at Energy Star and chart below. However, what it boils down to is most houses don't have enough insulation. R-30 is the bare minimum and unless you live in south Florida, the recommended amount is twice that.
Radiant Barriers: work differently than thermal insulation. They reflect the heat away from the thermal insulation, instead of slowing the heat transfer through it. This effectively increases the performance of your thermal insulation in your attic by 50% to 70%. Radiant barriers work best if they are installed between the attic insulation and the roof sheathing, and when they are sloped so that dust will not accumulate on it as quickly. Furthermore, radiant barriers are fairly inexpensive and easy to install.
Your last step is to determine if you are going to add thermal insulation, a radiant barrier, or both. If your house already has what is the code minimum in many locations of R-30, adding a radiant barrier should boost its effectiveness to 45 or even 50. Or if you have an old house with 5 ½" of fiberglass or cellulose (R-17 to R-20) and you add another R-19 and a radiant barrier, you effective insulation value should be between 54 and 65.