Is it time for Ceiling Insulation Installation in Richardson? What is the best type to choose? Let us focus on four specific types. One is blown attic insulation the other is batt insulation. Each type has pros and cons. However, which is the best choice for you.
One of the best advantages of blown attic insulation over batt is that the blown style covers everything; while there can be open areas in the batt type.
When you’re looking to have your home or building insulated with spray foam insulation, you have a couple of product choices. Whether you go with closed foam or open foam insulation, the differences in their make will make a big difference in which one will work best for your needs.
Radiant barrier insulation has one reflective side that is made from an aluminum coating. Any radiant barrier insulation can be installed in an existing or new home. The reflective side of the barrier insulation is made to face the open air pocket of the surface.
Almost all Ceiling Insulation Installation in Richardson are tested and rated as fireproof. If for some strange reason you find one that is not, stay away from that product.
How to Evaluate the Types and Amount of Insulation
Radiant Barrier Insulation is a reflective insulation made mostly out of aluminum. There are lots of different types radiant barrier out there and they all have their specific applications. I know mostly about radiant barrier that is used to retrofit existing homes, specifically adding the insulation to the attic.
There are some radiant barrier types that are used in new constructions which are placed in the walls or under concrete etc but again, I'm focusing mainly on the addition of the material to an existing home on top of the existing attic insulation. When radiant barrier is rolled out on top o the existing attic insulation people can expect so see an average of 17% reduction in their heating and cooling costs.
Some people even claim as much as a 50% reduction in their monthly bills but that's more of an extreme case. The difference comes in how you use your electricity and/or natural gas. If you have an enormous house with giant vaulted ceilings and live in Arizona and like to keep your house at 65 degrees Fahrenheit during the summer then adding radiant barrier might actually save you 50% or so.
But if you have a really small house and you live in a moderate climate and most of your electricity is used for your 5 giant plasma TV's and you only turn the air conditioner on once or twice a summer, then you probably won't see that large of a reduction in your utilities bills. Whether or not you see a reduction in your utilities bills you will most certainly be able to maintain a comfortable temperature in your house much more easily than with only the standard mass insulation (fiberglass, cellulose, styrofoam etc).
The most cost effective way to install the radiant barrier insulation into your attic is to simply lay it on top of the existing insulation. If you're going to do this just make sure that you use material that allows water vapor to pass through it so you don't have any moisture condensation problems. And just follow the directions provided to you by the manufacturer. If the manufacturer doesn't provide instructions then you should choose a different manufacturer. If you're going to hire someone to do it then make sure they are bonded and insured so that if they fall through your roof you won't be stuck with the bill.
Sealing and Insulating Your Attic Hatch
House attic mold is one of the most "popular" items in my property inspection reports. And now is time for an explanation of how to kill mold and / or how to clean mold in the attic. But before I do that, let me give you a little advice, something to consider before you sign a few (if you're lucky) thousand dollars contract agreement with a mold remediation company.
Attic mold remediation TIP - an alternative (to consider):
Let us assume that you are in the middle of a real-estate transaction, and the home inspector just revealed to you, that your entire house attic is contaminated with mold.
If you have a brand new roof, you can only blame yourself or try to blame the roofing contractor for not checking the attic before replacing the roof (he will laugh at you unless you've actually asked the guy to check the attic before the roof replacement). If you have an older roof, the importance of this advice is even greater.
Call at least 2-3 mold remediation companies for an estimate - specify to the representatives, that you not only want to have the mold removed, but also attic ventilation system corrected / installed if necessary / ask if the attic insulation requires replacement.
With the numbers from the mold remediation contractors, call 2-3 roofing contractors, and ask them for a quote on the roof replacement cost including decking boards / plywood (ask the roofer to check the attic area), attic ventilation improvement, and insulation if necessary.
Be cautious if they only suggest humidistat controlled power vent installation - without properly functioning soffit vents or any type of vents along the lower portion of the roof this might not be an adequate solution.
If the attic insulation replacement is not required (it most cases it will not be possible to tell without laboratory testing), make sure it's sealed with plastic foil before the roof and its decking replacement. Fold the foil sealing its contents after the contaminated decking has been removed, and dispose of as a regular waste (EPA recommendation).
I personally wouldn't even attempt to do it myself, so my suggestion is:
Use a professional mold remediation company:
- check their background and check it manually by calling their clients
- ask for clients who had their attic mold remediated approximately 1 year ago - it usually takes a winter for the mold to start growing again if the job wasn't fully completed
- Insist on removing the mold completely instead of encapsulating it (Media Blasting methods give the best results).
- Encapsulation is simply a process of covering the mold contaminated surface with paint (paint like product) that contains (or at least some of them do) mold killing chemicals
If your attic mold is properly removed and all of the issues responsible for its growth corrected, which is even more important than mold removing, it will not re-grow / no need for encapsulating.
- Hire a different contractor for mold testing and mold remediation to eliminate conflict of interest.
- Make sure that you perform an independent clearance test after the mold remediation process completion.
- Clearance test is to determine if there are any mold spores remaining in the previously contaminated area
All wood (framing and decking) surfaces should be perfectly clean (like brand new), unless there was some rotting that resulted from leaking roof or extremely humid conditions in the attic - those sections of wood should be either replaced or reinforced from underneath. You don't want anyone to fall through the roof while servicing it or just inspecting.