Is it time for Loft Insulation Installers in Waxahachie? What is the best type to choose? Let us focus on four specific types. One is blown attic insulation the other is batt insulation. Each type has pros and cons. However, which is the best choice for you.
One of the best advantages of blown attic insulation over batt is that the blown style covers everything; while there can be open areas in the batt type.
When you’re looking to have your home or building insulated with spray foam insulation, you have a couple of product choices. Whether you go with closed foam or open foam insulation, the differences in their make will make a big difference in which one will work best for your needs.
Radiant barrier insulation has one reflective side that is made from an aluminum coating. Any radiant barrier insulation can be installed in an existing or new home. The reflective side of the barrier insulation is made to face the open air pocket of the surface.
Almost all Loft Insulation Installers in Waxahachie are tested and rated as fireproof. If for some strange reason you find one that is not, stay away from that product.
The Cost of Spray Foam Insulation
Radiant Barrier Insulation is a reflective insulation made mostly out of aluminum. There are lots of different types radiant barrier out there and they all have their specific applications. I know mostly about radiant barrier that is used to retrofit existing homes, specifically adding the insulation to the attic.
There are some radiant barrier types that are used in new constructions which are placed in the walls or under concrete etc but again, I'm focusing mainly on the addition of the material to an existing home on top of the existing attic insulation. When radiant barrier is rolled out on top o the existing attic insulation people can expect so see an average of 17% reduction in their heating and cooling costs.
Some people even claim as much as a 50% reduction in their monthly bills but that's more of an extreme case. The difference comes in how you use your electricity and/or natural gas. If you have an enormous house with giant vaulted ceilings and live in Arizona and like to keep your house at 65 degrees Fahrenheit during the summer then adding radiant barrier might actually save you 50% or so.
But if you have a really small house and you live in a moderate climate and most of your electricity is used for your 5 giant plasma TV's and you only turn the air conditioner on once or twice a summer, then you probably won't see that large of a reduction in your utilities bills. Whether or not you see a reduction in your utilities bills you will most certainly be able to maintain a comfortable temperature in your house much more easily than with only the standard mass insulation (fiberglass, cellulose, styrofoam etc).
The most cost effective way to install the radiant barrier insulation into your attic is to simply lay it on top of the existing insulation. If you're going to do this just make sure that you use material that allows water vapor to pass through it so you don't have any moisture condensation problems. And just follow the directions provided to you by the manufacturer. If the manufacturer doesn't provide instructions then you should choose a different manufacturer. If you're going to hire someone to do it then make sure they are bonded and insured so that if they fall through your roof you won't be stuck with the bill.
Radiant Barrier Insulation Installation
Insulating your attic is a great way to help lower your heating and cooling bills.
Using batts or rolls easily helps you achieve the recommended R-value for better insulating performance.
Ready? Okay, let’s go for it! Use layers of high R-Value insulation like R-30 or 38.
And depending on whether you have some insulation or no insulation, you may need a mix of Kraft-faced and unfaced, but we’ll get to that later.
Here are the tools, supplies and safety gear you’ll need for installation.
Let’s get started.
Insulation comes in rolls or pre-cut batts.
Either works, but we recommend using rolls in your attic to quickly cover a large area.
Just roll out the insulation and cut as needed.
Pre-cut batts are great for areas built at standard dimensions or when it’s easier to move small sections of insulation at a time.
If you’re adding insulation to what’s already there, you need to use unfaced insulation.
Putting Kraft-faced insulation over existing insulation will trap moisture and lead to mold and other problems.
That’s not good.
With existing insulation, all you need to do is add rolls of new unfaced insulation until you reach your desired R-Value.
If you’re insulating an attic that has no existing insulation, you could use Kraft-faced insulation on your first layer because that paper or vapor retarder, will help keep moisture from moving between your home below and the attic.
Before we start insulating the attic from scratch, let’s seal any air leaks with caulk for small gaps and foam for gaps up to three inches.
Then, we need to protect any objects that produce heat, like these can lights, by building a baffle.
A baffle is like a box that you place around the heat source.
You can construct one using cardboard or rigid foam.
This will need to keep insulation at least three inches away from the object.
Ventilation is incredibly important with attic insulation.
Be sure to use a vent chute so the fiberglass doesn’t come into contact with the underside of the roof.
Now that all that’s done, we can get down to it.
Measure your joist cavity opening to make sure your insulation will fit side to side and end to end.
As you cut down your roll, use a 2x4 and a utility knife on top of your base for a clean, easy cut.
If you have a narrow joist opening, you may need to trim it lengthwise before getting into the attic.
When you’re installing in your attic floor, place the paper side down against the floor to help prevent moisture from moving between your home below and the attic.
The unfaced side should be what you see when you’re finished.
Place your insulation between the joists and press it into place, just like you would with a wall.
You can continue to add rolls of unfaced insulation until you reach your desired R-Value.
Don’t forget about the attic door or hatch! Foamboards and weatherstripping can do the trick.
So that’s insulating attics with rolls or pre-cut batts! Want to see other places in your home where you may need to insulate? Check out these helpful videos.