Is it time for Cavity Wall Insulation Cost in Midlothian? What is the best type to choose? Let us focus on four specific types. One is blown attic insulation the other is batt insulation. Each type has pros and cons. However, which is the best choice for you.
One of the best advantages of blown attic insulation over batt is that the blown style covers everything; while there can be open areas in the batt type.
When you’re looking to have your home or building insulated with spray foam insulation, you have a couple of product choices. Whether you go with closed foam or open foam insulation, the differences in their make will make a big difference in which one will work best for your needs.
Radiant barrier insulation has one reflective side that is made from an aluminum coating. Any radiant barrier insulation can be installed in an existing or new home. The reflective side of the barrier insulation is made to face the open air pocket of the surface.
Almost all Cavity Wall Insulation Cost in Midlothian are tested and rated as fireproof. If for some strange reason you find one that is not, stay away from that product.
Sealing and Insulating Your Attic Hatch
Okay, it’s starting to get cold in Pittsburgh.
And today I’m going to put off raking all these leaves because I’m going to have mybuddy, Bill, insulate his walls and his ceilings over his new addition at his home.
So we’regoing to show you how to do that and save a ton of money by insulating your home.
Andwe’ve got some really great tips for you.
Plus, an awesome surprise at the end.
So let’sget started.
Okay, these are all the supplies I need forinstalling insulation: respirator, eyewear, you got a razor, measuring tape, somethingto cut insulation with, gloves, and then I just pack a chisel so I can push the insulationinto certain places that are hard to reach.
Okay, now it’s time to go to Bill’s.
Okay so we’re over at Bill’s house.
We’re going to be putting in an insulation.
Why?Why are we putting in an insulation? Because we need an addition on our house.
Why do weneed an addition on our house? We don’t have enough bedrooms.
We got one baby, twobabies, and a third baby.
So we ran out of bedrooms in the house.
So we had to buildanother bedroom.
So we have our little helpers here, but Billand I are going to be putting in an insulation.
So we’re going to show you how to do thatright now.
For Bill’s addition, we’ve actually got2” x 6” framing.
We’re using the R-21 Kraft-Faced Batts because it fits perfectlyinto the 2” x 6” framing.
This is actually 5 ½” thick x 15” wide x 93” long.
Nowthe Kraft-Faced which has paper on it, like this, is a vapor retarder.
What this doesis prevent mold and mildew from getting inside the stud bay.
The reason why we’re using an R-21 is when you’re building an addition on your house,R-21 is the minimum R value that you need for the current Energy Code standards.
Thenice thing about Johns Manville products is that they’re formaldehyde-free.
And if you’vegot kids or you want to actually keep yourself safe, formaldehyde-free is the way to go.
So why do you want to insulate your house? It’s pretty much a no-brainer, right? Yougot to keep it warm.
It’s… what were you saying? It’s got thermal and sound control.
Which is great for when you have kids.
Right? Or if you live in a busy area—let’ssay you live in the city, and you want to try to cut down on noise pollution—addinginsulation to the walls is perfect for that.
The other thing to keep in mind is this—youjust put in a new HVAC system, right?—so by putting an insulation, you cut down onthe stress of constantly running your heating or cooling system.
So it really helps outin that way, too.
So how do you pick out the insulation thatyou want? So in this case, we have 2x6’s, and they are 16” on center.
So you wantto pick out the insulation that fits into the stud bay.
Because they have differentstud bay widths that you can work with.
Different house builders will build in different ways.
Most houses are going to be 16” on center, so most of your stud cavity bays are goingto be 14 ½” wide.
Now there are other framing methods where you can go up to 24” wide.
In which case you would want something that’s 22 ½” wide batts.
So for the ceiling we’re actually using R-38.
And Bill’s ceilings here are… whatare these joist sizes? These are framed 24” on center.
So we got a 22 ½” wide battfor the ceilings.
I’m measuring the inside of my wall bayto determine the height for the insulation that we need to have here.
One thing thatwe messed up is that I ordered insulation that’s slightly too tall.
All you need todo is just take a framing square such as this.
Press down real hard till you get a nice spotto cut with.
A standard utility knife is all you need to cut this.
And take a few passesat it just to make sure you get all the way through to the insulation.
There’s a couple of different tools that you can use to cut this.
A utility knife isprobably one of the most common ways.
This is an actual insulation knife designed forcutting insulation.
It works very well for that.
We have electrical wiring that’s going through some of these stud bays.
And it’s recommendedthat you fill every hole where you have penetrations for where your wires is.
We just got a littlebit of caulking here.
And we’re just going to fill each one of these holes before weget insulating.
So what we want to do is get this right upto the top.
You don’t want to smash it in there.
You just want it to fit very nicely.
I’m just going to tuck this in all the way down.
And if you notice there’s an electricalline here.
There are two different ways to handle electrical line.
They say the preferredmethod is to split the batt down center, take half of it, tuck it behind the wire so youget a nice layer of insulation behind that wire so you get nice, pure insulation allthe way from floor to ceiling.
Most importantly, you just want this to fit exactly right.
Youdon’t want to smash it down in.
You don’t want it to be tucked.
And you don’t wantit to be stretched.
You want it to go in as comfortable as it can.
The outlet box, whenever we stuff the insulation here, you don’t want to just jam the insulationin around it because, like I said before, if the insulation is smashed it’s not goingto work as good.
You want this stuff to be puffy and fluffy just the way that it’sdesigned to be installed.
At this point, this is where my insulation knife will come inhandy.
We’re going to go right to the top edge of the box here and just cut the insulationin a square shape—same size as the electrical box.
Remove this little square here.
I lefta little bit here.
That should be enough to fit behind the box.
I tuck this in behindthe box.
And when we’re done, it should have a nice, even fit around that box.
All right, so while Bill is finishing off the insulation, I wanted to tell you thatJohns Manville just sponsored this video, and this is part of their Winter Warrior program.
And we really want to encourage you to—when you insulate your house if you’re usinga Johns Manville insulation—share that on social media and use #winterwarrior.
Thatway you can inspire other people to make their homes more comfortable this winter.
You canalso find the products that we’re using in this video at Lowe’s and Home Depot.
And if you don’t have one of those stores in your area, you can go to Johns Manvillewebsite and find a store locator in your area.
Now that I got the insulation stuffed in thewall, I ran my hand along it.
Make sure it’s nice and smooth in place, you’ll noticethat it has these little tabs on here.
Now there’s a couple of ways to install thisinsulation.
There’s what’s called a friction-fit insulation, which this is not that type ofinsulation.
This one is meant to be stapled.
So you could either surface-staple to theface of the stud or you could staple to the inside of the stud.
Now your drywallers willappreciate it if you staple to the inside of the stud.
Because when you staple to theoutside, if your staple doesn’t sink all the way, it can cause a lump in the drywall,and you don’t want that.
So Johns Manville suggests for their product is that you stapleevery 6” to 8” along the inside of the stud.
Now when you staple this, you’ll bepushing the insulation back, but they will just puff back up and come back to the rightdimension.
All right, we have a little bit of a spacehere between this stud and that one.
So we need to actually cut down some of the insulationfor the space.
Bill’s doing the exact same thing with these tiny, little piece of insulationthat is above the head or for the window.
You got to cut them to size, make sure thatthey’re tight and flush with all of the framing.
Otherwise your insulation is notgoing to do its job.
Where you have windows you definitely wantto use expanding foam around the window frame to cut down on any draft coming into the house.
So for the ceiling, we’re going to be using the R-38 13” thick x 24” wide x 48”long pieces.
Well, I’m about to install the Johns Manvilleceiling insulation R-38.
As he said it’s 13” thick.
And I was wondering, “How amI going to get a 13” thick 24” wide batt in the ceiling?” Well they make them in48” sections to make it easier to install this in the ceiling.
I was very glad to seethat.
Okay, well we got one bay of the ceiling filledin with all the insulation.
Now I have all these seams here where they’re separated.
This just needs to be taped together with a polytape or a tape that is designed fortaping insulation.
It’s also to make sure that the vapor barrier is continuous throughoutthe entire ceiling plane.
Also done in the walls as well.
The walls, you really shouldn’thave any seams that need tape.
But if you have any tears or anything like that in youmoisture-resistant layer, then that’s where you’re going to want to install polytapejust to seal all that up and make sure it’s air-tight.
All right, so that’s how you insulate your walls and your ceilings.
We hope that youlike this video and got some great tips.
Now here’s the surprise.
We’re going to begiving away a $100 gift certificate to one of our fans.
So how do you enter into thegiveaway? Well, add a comment below here on YouTube.
Or if you want to, you can also adda comment over on Home Repair Tutor.
That will automatically enter you into the $100giveaway.
It’s going to be a gift certificate.
It’s pretty sweet.
So you can use that tobuy insulation or any tool that you want.
So thanks for watching today’s video.
Wehad a great time making it.
We hope that you got some awesome tips.
We’ll see you nextweek.
Figured out that R-38 makes a great bed—justin case I get kicked out of my house.
The Cost of Spray Foam Insulation
Insulating your attic is a great way to help lower your heating and cooling bills.
Using batts or rolls easily helps you achieve the recommended R-value for better insulating performance.
Ready? Okay, let’s go for it! Use layers of high R-Value insulation like R-30 or 38.
And depending on whether you have some insulation or no insulation, you may need a mix of Kraft-faced and unfaced, but we’ll get to that later.
Here are the tools, supplies and safety gear you’ll need for installation.
Let’s get started.
Insulation comes in rolls or pre-cut batts.
Either works, but we recommend using rolls in your attic to quickly cover a large area.
Just roll out the insulation and cut as needed.
Pre-cut batts are great for areas built at standard dimensions or when it’s easier to move small sections of insulation at a time.
If you’re adding insulation to what’s already there, you need to use unfaced insulation.
Putting Kraft-faced insulation over existing insulation will trap moisture and lead to mold and other problems.
That’s not good.
With existing insulation, all you need to do is add rolls of new unfaced insulation until you reach your desired R-Value.
If you’re insulating an attic that has no existing insulation, you could use Kraft-faced insulation on your first layer because that paper or vapor retarder, will help keep moisture from moving between your home below and the attic.
Before we start insulating the attic from scratch, let’s seal any air leaks with caulk for small gaps and foam for gaps up to three inches.
Then, we need to protect any objects that produce heat, like these can lights, by building a baffle.
A baffle is like a box that you place around the heat source.
You can construct one using cardboard or rigid foam.
This will need to keep insulation at least three inches away from the object.
Ventilation is incredibly important with attic insulation.
Be sure to use a vent chute so the fiberglass doesn’t come into contact with the underside of the roof.
Now that all that’s done, we can get down to it.
Measure your joist cavity opening to make sure your insulation will fit side to side and end to end.
As you cut down your roll, use a 2x4 and a utility knife on top of your base for a clean, easy cut.
If you have a narrow joist opening, you may need to trim it lengthwise before getting into the attic.
When you’re installing in your attic floor, place the paper side down against the floor to help prevent moisture from moving between your home below and the attic.
The unfaced side should be what you see when you’re finished.
Place your insulation between the joists and press it into place, just like you would with a wall.
You can continue to add rolls of unfaced insulation until you reach your desired R-Value.
Don’t forget about the attic door or hatch! Foamboards and weatherstripping can do the trick.
So that’s insulating attics with rolls or pre-cut batts! Want to see other places in your home where you may need to insulate? Check out these helpful videos.