Home Insulation Cost Addison

Is it time for Blown Attic Insulation Cost in Addison? What is the best type to choose? Let us focus on four specific types. One is blown attic insulation the other is batt insulation. Each type has pros and cons. However, which is the best choice for you.

Radiant Barrier Foil

One of the best advantages of blown attic insulation over batt is that the blown style covers everything; while there can be open areas in the batt type.

Radiant Barrier Foil

When you’re looking to have your home or building insulated with spray foam insulation, you have a couple of product choices. Whether you go with closed foam or open foam insulation, the differences in their make will make a big difference in which one will work best for your needs.

Radiant barrier insulation has one reflective side that is made from an aluminum coating. Any radiant barrier insulation can be installed in an existing or new home. The reflective side of the barrier insulation is made to face the open air pocket of the surface.

Almost all Blown Attic Insulation Cost in Addison are tested and rated as fireproof. If for some strange reason you find one that is not, stay away from that product.

Discount Insulation

The Purpose of Radiant Barrier Insulation

Are you considering insulating your home? You might be wondering what type of insulation would be the best fit for you. It is imperative to have the proper amount of insulation in your home. Insulation is rated in terms of thermal resistance often referred to as "R-value", which indicates the resistance to heat flow. The higher the R-value, the greater the effectiveness of the insulator will be. The R-value of the insulation depends on the type of material, its thickness and its density. The three most common types of insulation used in residential or commercial buildings are fiberglass batts, blown cellulose and polyurethane foam.

Fiberglass insulation is made from molten glass and recycled industrial waste. The fiberglass insulation carries an R-value of 3.14 per inch. Although, the fiberglass insulation is cheap there are many deficiencies with the product. Gaps tend to form between each fiberglass batt (known as bypasses) these gaps can become sites of air infiltration or condensation. Each of these deficiencies will reduce the effectiveness of the insulation resulting in a lowered R-value. A vapor barrier must be included in the installation of the fiberglass to prevent condensation and mold form growing. Fiberglass insulation is also hazardous to your health

Blown cellulose insulation is 100% natural and is made from recycled newspapers. The cellulose is treated with a flame retardant and insect repellent to prevent potential fire risks and wildlife infestations. Blown cellulose has an R-value of 3.70 per inch. Unlike fiberglass, Cellulose contains some moisture control characteristics, which prevents the accumulation of condensation and the growth of mold.

Another commonly used insulator in residential homes and commercial buildings is Polyurethane Foam, also referred to as "Spray Foam". The polyurethane foam comes in two different forms, open cell and closed cell. The open cell spray foam insulation is a low-density material. The open cell foam carries an R-Value of 5 to 5.5 per inch. The second type of polyurethane foam available is referred to as "closed-cell foam". Closed-Cell is a high-density foam carrying an R-value of 7.5 per inch. The closed cell foam is dense enough to improve the structural integrity of the building it is applied to. Some advantages of the Spray foam insulation include; air sealing in gaps and penetrations where blown cellulose and fiberglass bats cannot reach, the foam can fill wall cavities in finished walls, it can also act as a sound barrier and can increase the structural integrity of a building as well as provide its own vapor barrier. Spray foam insulation is the most efficient insulating product in the market today.

Spray On Insulation Foam

The Importance of Cleaning Your Attic

House attic mold is one of the most "popular" items in my property inspection reports. And now is time for an explanation of how to kill mold and / or how to clean mold in the attic. But before I do that, let me give you a little advice, something to consider before you sign a few (if you're lucky) thousand dollars contract agreement with a mold remediation company.

Attic mold remediation TIP - an alternative (to consider):

Let us assume that you are in the middle of a real-estate transaction, and the home inspector just revealed to you, that your entire house attic is contaminated with mold.

If you have a brand new roof, you can only blame yourself or try to blame the roofing contractor for not checking the attic before replacing the roof (he will laugh at you unless you've actually asked the guy to check the attic before the roof replacement). If you have an older roof, the importance of this advice is even greater.

Call at least 2-3 mold remediation companies for an estimate - specify to the representatives, that you not only want to have the mold removed, but also attic ventilation system corrected / installed if necessary / ask if the attic insulation requires replacement.

With the numbers from the mold remediation contractors, call 2-3 roofing contractors, and ask them for a quote on the roof replacement cost including decking boards / plywood (ask the roofer to check the attic area), attic ventilation improvement, and insulation if necessary.

Be cautious if they only suggest humidistat controlled power vent installation - without properly functioning soffit vents or any type of vents along the lower portion of the roof this might not be an adequate solution.

If the attic insulation replacement is not required (it most cases it will not be possible to tell without laboratory testing), make sure it's sealed with plastic foil before the roof and its decking replacement. Fold the foil sealing its contents after the contaminated decking has been removed, and dispose of as a regular waste (EPA recommendation).

I personally wouldn't even attempt to do it myself, so my suggestion is:

Use a professional mold remediation company:

  • check their background and check it manually by calling their clients
  • ask for clients who had their attic mold remediated approximately 1 year ago - it usually takes a winter for the mold to start growing again if the job wasn't fully completed
  • Insist on removing the mold completely instead of encapsulating it (Media Blasting methods give the best results).
  • Encapsulation is simply a process of covering the mold contaminated surface with paint (paint like product) that contains (or at least some of them do) mold killing chemicals

If your attic mold is properly removed and all of the issues responsible for its growth corrected, which is even more important than mold removing, it will not re-grow / no need for encapsulating.

  • Hire a different contractor for mold testing and mold remediation to eliminate conflict of interest.
  • Make sure that you perform an independent clearance test after the mold remediation process completion.
  • Clearance test is to determine if there are any mold spores remaining in the previously contaminated area
Extremely important - examine the attic (or have somebody do it for you) after the mold cleaning procedure is finished.

All wood (framing and decking) surfaces should be perfectly clean (like brand new), unless there was some rotting that resulted from leaking roof or extremely humid conditions in the attic - those sections of wood should be either replaced or reinforced from underneath. You don't want anyone to fall through the roof while servicing it or just inspecting.


Roof Insulation Cost Texas