Is it time for Loft Insulation Cost in Red Oak? What is the best type to choose? Let us focus on four specific types. One is blown attic insulation the other is batt insulation. Each type has pros and cons. However, which is the best choice for you.
One of the best advantages of blown attic insulation over batt is that the blown style covers everything; while there can be open areas in the batt type.
When you’re looking to have your home or building insulated with spray foam insulation, you have a couple of product choices. Whether you go with closed foam or open foam insulation, the differences in their make will make a big difference in which one will work best for your needs.
Radiant barrier insulation has one reflective side that is made from an aluminum coating. Any radiant barrier insulation can be installed in an existing or new home. The reflective side of the barrier insulation is made to face the open air pocket of the surface.
Almost all Loft Insulation Cost in Red Oak are tested and rated as fireproof. If for some strange reason you find one that is not, stay away from that product.
R-Value Comparisons Between Different Types of Insulations
Radiant Barrier Insulation is a reflective insulation made mostly out of aluminum. There are lots of different types radiant barrier out there and they all have their specific applications. I know mostly about radiant barrier that is used to retrofit existing homes, specifically adding the insulation to the attic.
There are some radiant barrier types that are used in new constructions which are placed in the walls or under concrete etc but again, I'm focusing mainly on the addition of the material to an existing home on top of the existing attic insulation. When radiant barrier is rolled out on top o the existing attic insulation people can expect so see an average of 17% reduction in their heating and cooling costs.
Some people even claim as much as a 50% reduction in their monthly bills but that's more of an extreme case. The difference comes in how you use your electricity and/or natural gas. If you have an enormous house with giant vaulted ceilings and live in Arizona and like to keep your house at 65 degrees Fahrenheit during the summer then adding radiant barrier might actually save you 50% or so.
But if you have a really small house and you live in a moderate climate and most of your electricity is used for your 5 giant plasma TV's and you only turn the air conditioner on once or twice a summer, then you probably won't see that large of a reduction in your utilities bills. Whether or not you see a reduction in your utilities bills you will most certainly be able to maintain a comfortable temperature in your house much more easily than with only the standard mass insulation (fiberglass, cellulose, styrofoam etc).
The most cost effective way to install the radiant barrier insulation into your attic is to simply lay it on top of the existing insulation. If you're going to do this just make sure that you use material that allows water vapor to pass through it so you don't have any moisture condensation problems. And just follow the directions provided to you by the manufacturer. If the manufacturer doesn't provide instructions then you should choose a different manufacturer. If you're going to hire someone to do it then make sure they are bonded and insured so that if they fall through your roof you won't be stuck with the bill.
Spray Foam Insulation Basics
Adding insulation to your attic is a great way to save energy, but there are a number of choices that you need to sort through. What is the best type for your situation? What is the best location for this added insulation? How much should you add?
The first thing that you need to determine is how much insulation you already have. Measure the depth and determine the type. Then multiply the depth by the appropriate value: Cellulose: 3.1, Fiberglass Batt or Blown: 3.7, Closed-Cell Foam: 6.2, Open-Cell Foam: 3.6.
Before you move any further to insulate your attic, you should make sure that you have any knob and tube wiring in your attic that would be covered by insulation replaced. The wires in this type of system need to be in the open air in order to dissipate heat. If they are surrounded by insulation this will trap the heat and cause a fire hazard.
Once you have calculated the R-value of your insulation, you need to determine how much more you should add. Energy Starr has developed recommended levels of attic insulation for every Zone throughout the US. See map at Energy Star and chart below. However, what it boils down to is most houses don't have enough insulation. R-30 is the bare minimum and unless you live in south Florida, the recommended amount is twice that.
Radiant Barriers: work differently than thermal insulation. They reflect the heat away from the thermal insulation, instead of slowing the heat transfer through it. This effectively increases the performance of your thermal insulation in your attic by 50% to 70%. Radiant barriers work best if they are installed between the attic insulation and the roof sheathing, and when they are sloped so that dust will not accumulate on it as quickly. Furthermore, radiant barriers are fairly inexpensive and easy to install.
Your last step is to determine if you are going to add thermal insulation, a radiant barrier, or both. If your house already has what is the code minimum in many locations of R-30, adding a radiant barrier should boost its effectiveness to 45 or even 50. Or if you have an old house with 5 ½" of fiberglass or cellulose (R-17 to R-20) and you add another R-19 and a radiant barrier, you effective insulation value should be between 54 and 65.