Is it time for Ceiling Insulation Installation in Richardson? What is the best type to choose? Let us focus on four specific types. One is blown attic insulation the other is batt insulation. Each type has pros and cons. However, which is the best choice for you.
One of the best advantages of blown attic insulation over batt is that the blown style covers everything; while there can be open areas in the batt type.
When you’re looking to have your home or building insulated with spray foam insulation, you have a couple of product choices. Whether you go with closed foam or open foam insulation, the differences in their make will make a big difference in which one will work best for your needs.
Radiant barrier insulation has one reflective side that is made from an aluminum coating. Any radiant barrier insulation can be installed in an existing or new home. The reflective side of the barrier insulation is made to face the open air pocket of the surface.
Almost all Ceiling Insulation Installation in Richardson are tested and rated as fireproof. If for some strange reason you find one that is not, stay away from that product.
What are the Different Types of Insulation?
If you are one of the millions of homeowners in the United States or in Canada that have recently discovered your house is suffering from mold in your attic, and are looking for solid answers, I know it can be extremely confusing.
There are as many companies out there promoting their products, as there are offering their services to correct the mold and clean it up. It can be extremely bewildering and if you haven't discovered it already, I am sure you will. There are many reasons for this. First there are no national guidelines that are required to be followed if you have a mold problem. Secondly the ones that do exist, are incomplete and many times contradict one another!
This article will help you sort out the BS (that's baloney stuff folks) specifically the BS technique of dry ice blasting and shall also help you to find a contractor that will actually solve your problem.
A little background about mold in attics. Mold in attics is primarily caused by improper ventilation. In the northern climates this is often due to heat loss in the winter months when the hot air escaping from the house condenses against the cold boards of the attic, and is sometimes exacerbated by an improperly discharged bathroom fan. In the south it can be caused by an improperly functioning HVAC unit located into the attic letting cold air escape and condense against the hot boards of the attic or by an improperly discharged bathroom fan or dryer vent. In both climates what happens is moisture becomes trapped in the attic areas and accumulates on the boards of the attic sheathing and rafters, where mold starts to grow.
Four things are required for mold to grow. One: a spore must be present, which is like a mold seed (hint there are spores in virtually every breath you have ever taken this means they are very abundant but nearly invisible, 10,000 of them can fit on the head of a pin). Two: a food source must be present, this is something which was once alive or is still alive, preferably to the mold something that is cellulose based (hint this is any plant based organic matter like the boards in your attic and the rafters, even the paper backing on the rolled insulation can be a food source, not to mention the paper on the backside of the ceiling drywall under the insulation); Three: the right temperature mold must be present, molds have a narrow temperature range in which they thrive; usually between 20 and 100 degrees Fahrenheit with the majority living between 40 degrees and 90 degrees ; Fourth:and lastly, water must be present (hint you can stir all of the above three things in a pot and mold will not grow without water, water is essential to mold growth but may be present as vapour only, not necessarily as a liquid).
Problem Solved Right?? Wrong!
Well, whats wrong you ask? Plenty! First the spores are lofted into the air where they become invisible to the naked eye, many times these spores are left floating, and when the contractor removes his equipment with the problem looking solved, they remain lurking and floating; just waiting to land and recontaminate the structure!
But the most important reason it is ineffective, has to do with the way mold grows. Remember how we talked about the dandelion roots? Well the ice blasting does a great job at removing the pigment from the mold. This is in the surface layer with the fruit bodies. What it doesn't do is to remove the roots!
Now don't get me wrong it is completely possible to ice blast away enough wood to remove the roots . But in order to accomplish this the contractor has to grind away at the wood till 1/2 inch has been removed! Remember most attics are only 1/2 inch thick plywood in the first place! Additionally, if the rafters are blasted away 1/2 inch around all three exposed side your roof is likely to collapse! This process is just another one of the many gimmicks that have been tried to charge high prices and to stand out in the marketplace.
That's why we developed a completely safe time tested non toxic to people process that completely eliminates mold without destroying the structure and leaving your house mold free permanently! Remember to hire a contractor whose system was designed with eliminating the roots of the mold problem not just the stains the mold makes! Save money don't pay to have your mold fixed twice! Don't use dry ice blasting!
About Reflective Foil Insulation
House attic mold is one of the most "popular" items in my property inspection reports. And now is time for an explanation of how to kill mold and / or how to clean mold in the attic. But before I do that, let me give you a little advice, something to consider before you sign a few (if you're lucky) thousand dollars contract agreement with a mold remediation company.
Attic mold remediation TIP - an alternative (to consider):
Let us assume that you are in the middle of a real-estate transaction, and the home inspector just revealed to you, that your entire house attic is contaminated with mold.
If you have a brand new roof, you can only blame yourself or try to blame the roofing contractor for not checking the attic before replacing the roof (he will laugh at you unless you've actually asked the guy to check the attic before the roof replacement). If you have an older roof, the importance of this advice is even greater.
Call at least 2-3 mold remediation companies for an estimate - specify to the representatives, that you not only want to have the mold removed, but also attic ventilation system corrected / installed if necessary / ask if the attic insulation requires replacement.
With the numbers from the mold remediation contractors, call 2-3 roofing contractors, and ask them for a quote on the roof replacement cost including decking boards / plywood (ask the roofer to check the attic area), attic ventilation improvement, and insulation if necessary.
Be cautious if they only suggest humidistat controlled power vent installation - without properly functioning soffit vents or any type of vents along the lower portion of the roof this might not be an adequate solution.
If the attic insulation replacement is not required (it most cases it will not be possible to tell without laboratory testing), make sure it's sealed with plastic foil before the roof and its decking replacement. Fold the foil sealing its contents after the contaminated decking has been removed, and dispose of as a regular waste (EPA recommendation).
I personally wouldn't even attempt to do it myself, so my suggestion is:
Use a professional mold remediation company:
- check their background and check it manually by calling their clients
- ask for clients who had their attic mold remediated approximately 1 year ago - it usually takes a winter for the mold to start growing again if the job wasn't fully completed
- Insist on removing the mold completely instead of encapsulating it (Media Blasting methods give the best results).
- Encapsulation is simply a process of covering the mold contaminated surface with paint (paint like product) that contains (or at least some of them do) mold killing chemicals
If your attic mold is properly removed and all of the issues responsible for its growth corrected, which is even more important than mold removing, it will not re-grow / no need for encapsulating.
- Hire a different contractor for mold testing and mold remediation to eliminate conflict of interest.
- Make sure that you perform an independent clearance test after the mold remediation process completion.
- Clearance test is to determine if there are any mold spores remaining in the previously contaminated area
All wood (framing and decking) surfaces should be perfectly clean (like brand new), unless there was some rotting that resulted from leaking roof or extremely humid conditions in the attic - those sections of wood should be either replaced or reinforced from underneath. You don't want anyone to fall through the roof while servicing it or just inspecting.